Starting Issues
 

Alternators new, Batterys New, Wirings Alright, however my car only works well when it constantly runs,
my schedules involves working everyday but wed when i dont use my car, i have to jump it to start it. So is something draining my battery??? I got told it could be my apex turbo timer.

Also when i come to idling at a red light, if my car is cold the voltage drops dramatically and i have to keep it revving. Any ideas would be helpfull.:dance:

i had a similar problem...first when i got the alarm installed my starter wasn't receiving power, when i took it back to the dude he said he didnt link the alarm to the starter which was true...i ended puttin a switch button that was directly connected to the starter...now the fact that your battery maybe getting draining is something you have to check with a voltage meter...with that you could monitor if it drops when the car is off...my problem was that the pulley was too big because you have to consider gear ratios..the bigger the pulley the less revolutions it makes...i had to get a really small pulley to make enough energy to keep the battery on a optimum range...as a rule of thumb if your voltage reads at 11 or lower on idle and jumps only to 11.5 or 12V the max when revving, then it's the pulley...after i changed my pulley to a smaller(2 belt sizes smaller) my idle voltage jumped to 12V and to 13.9 on revving. i also increased my idle to 1000rpm to be on the safe side

Ah i see, you know what i think it might just be that, i do remember when i installed the starter the belt was really tight to fit it right, but i lowered it and fit it and i totally forgot to bring it up and tighten it. If that doesnt work ill go get a smaller belt and let you know my results. Thanks aton:bouncy:
And raising the idle? How can i properly do that?

you shouldnt raise your idle if your alt. isnt charging enough at your current idle then you need a new one also dont change your alt pulley to a smaller pulley it will kill your alt really fast you alt is already over drive about 3-1 from your crank thats 18000 rpm at 6k in your car anymore will kill your bearings also if you go to a smaller pulley it robs power

check your fusible link its probably falling apart in the underhood fuse box its the wire that sticks up all the way towards the passenger side

how much power and what if you changed the crank pulley?

not much but its not a good idea to change pulleys either way and imho underdrive crank pulleys are horrid ive seen them do way more damage then they do good the principles behind it is just retarded you dont add power and take away cooling efficiency also the crank pulley would work opposite of the way your wanting it will slow everything down not speed it up honestly like i said before its probably your fusible link it can look perfectly fine and be bad check your voltage at both sides of this

I've heard the same thing about the after market drive pulleys.

could i get a wee bit more details on where and how to properly check my fusible link?

looking at the engine from the front of the car its on the drivers side in the fuse box it is all the way on the left (4th on the top to the left) its marked as "ALT 1.25b" when you look at it it should make a u shape replacing a fuse basically you would check it the same way as a fuse check both sides of it with the car off hell it might fall apart when you touch it like mine did it looked perfect but as soon as i touched it it cracked in half if it is bad you need to pull out that section of the fuse box and the fusible link is bolted into the box if you still need more help i can post pics later

hah yea a pic would be nice, cause when i look at my car all i see is a mess:(