How It's Going
 

So, the car is being really good to me so far. I've changed the thermostat, flushed the cooling system, and replaced a after-market valve in the heater hose. Got it up on ramps right now, going to change the oil again as soon as it gets a little cooler.

The problems I've come across so far are:

The big rubber hose section between the mass air flow sensor and the turbo has a crack from the turbo to one of the little pipes that connects to it. Anyone know what this piece is called, and any idea where I can get another one? I'll duct tape it in the meantime.

The car can't go above 40 lbs of oil pressure. I can add more oil, and it will very briefly go above, then back down by the time I've driven a couple miles. It does stay about 20 lbs. Obviously the engine is leaking a whole lot of oil. The sides are covered in oil. After adding a quart last night, I got some nice smoke coming out from under the turbo somewhere, but it's since stopped. So, when I'm under it this afternoon, I'll clean off all the oil I can so I can get a pretty good idea of where it's leaking from. Hopefully it's a seal thats easy to get to? :)

Oh, anyone know the easiest way to pull a spark plug? Looks like either disconnect the heater hose or the throttle? Oh, looking around, looks like the throttle body's the easiest piece to remove.

And I want to replace the head gasket, easy enough to find, but what bolts do I use?

Looks like the (a) leak is from the head gasket on the passenger side of the engine. After filling it, I let it run while I watched it, visible leaking. Which I guess is better then some other places it could leak, as I want to replace the head gasket anyway.

The tube from the AFM to the turbo is commonly referred to as the accordion hose. Someone found a nice inexpensive replacement and posted it on here a while ago. Try searching the forum for "accordion hose" and look for a thread specifically about replacements. I'll see if I can find it for you.

40psi above 3K RPMS is within spec (36 to 71 is what the manual states... never seen above 60 myself and that engine was not stock at all). Above 4.3 is all that's required at idle. Not a high pressure system... it's more about flow. It's in the TSRM in the Lubrication section:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ <---- save that link!

On the Turbo the only thing you really need to move is the 3000 pipe, the rest can be worked around. On the N/A you need to move the throttle body, don't worry about disconnecting anything but the 1" tube connected to the front of it and the throttle linkage, then just flip it up over the "Y" pipe.

ARP is the most requested replacement for the head. The OEM bolts are reusable too, but I'm not a fan of reusing 22 year old bolts for anything. ARP offers both bolts and studs. Studs cost a bit more but offer more clamping force. For engine's that are mostly stock bolts are more than sufficient, just not at the stock torque value. Bolts should be torqued to 75ft lbs and studs to 90ft lbs. Do NOT over torque them, lubricate the threads very well with a good moly grease and ALWAYS chase the threads in the block.

Damn! That's bad... This is the oil!? :eek2: I fail to see how that's possible without the coolant and oil both contaminating each other to a very severe (engine destroying) degree.

Hey, I found a picture of my accordion hose:

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-problems.html


Heh, no, mines not that bad, though the crack is longer. That dealership out of texas has them for $46. Seems reasonable.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=213747

Well, there's no coolant in the oil, and no oil in the coolant, so it's entirely possible that it's leaking from somewhere else and just travelling down the seam between the head gasket and the block?

Check for oil in and around the spark plug galley... the most common oil leak is from old valve cover seals and the screws backing out.