Turbo Supra 1968 Engine/transmission removal
 

I own a 1986 turbo that has been stored since 2006 because the A430 transmission went out. Will not pull itself out of the street forward or reverse. I just sold a 1970 240Z I have owned since 1971 to raise the capital for the repair. Really hated to see it go as there were lots of great memories there, but I am now ready to pull the engine and transmission to have the transmission repaired. I located a guy who will do the rebuild for a $1,000 if I bring him the transmission. I decided this would be better to come out with the engine and trans. as a unit, as I need to attend to an exhaust leak and do a timing belt replacement, and just generally go through the system to bring them up to speed.
This will be our daily driver once back in the road.
Anyone want to by my '86 Mercedes 420SEL?:naughty:

At one time I had the URL for a site that gave a very easily understood way to pull the engine with some short cuts.
I remember it said the hood could be removed and laid on the top with a padding underneath.
The person seemed to have done this several times and it was very logical. Unfortunately, I have been unable to remember the site or find the address I saved.
Do any of you have some time saving suggestions. I have the good fortune to have a friend with a four arm lift and also have the engine hoist to make getting around and under the vehicle easier.
I will be looking for solid advice on the type of belt kit to purchase at reasonable prices and any other tips you may have

I would appreciated any suggestion.
Thanks
Robert:wavey:

1987 Turbo Supra Targa top "In Development"
1987 Volvo Sedan "For Sale"
1986 Mercedes Benz 420SEL "For Sale"
1982 Dodge Maxi Van Custom "For Sale"
1994 Ford E350 Hot Air Balloon Chase bus conversion "In Development" and "Not For Sale"
1986 Hot Air Balloon "Not For Sale
www.balloonsafari.com

Take your hood off obviously set it some where safe. Disconnect all lines and wiring. Disconnect rear driveshaft and slide out of the tranny. Make sure you drain it the best you can so you don't make a mess pulling it out. Don't forget to disconnect the shift linkage either and the speedo cable. Disconnect downpipe and pull out of the way. You can pull the engine with the turbo and manifold still on. You will have to take off the upper intake plenum to get at some wires and hoses. Also the throttle body and idle air control valve has to come off. Then for the motor mounts take the nut off of the bottom by the control arm. Then hook up the engine hoist put a jack under the tranny drop the crossmember then slowly jack it up and pull out at the same time. Really not that hard I have done it tons of times and I can usually get everything disconnected and taken apart and out within about an hour and a half and that is working with the car on jackstands and basic handtools.

Its really not that hard just do some research and follow the repair manual. If you don't have one get one. And if you have an 86 its actually an 86.5 if it is an MK3. Also if its an 86.5 if shouldn't be turbo unless it was swapped. They didn't start putting the 7M-GTE in until 87

As stated, the engine removal is easy. Only thing I do differently than supraflymkiii is I remove the glovebox, unplug the wire harness from the ecu, and push the plugs through the firewall (with the grommet). This way you can leave the intake intact, and just disconnect the couple of wires that go to the body. Also makes reassembly easier, IMO

Model correction
 

Right you are. I purchased this car from a friend who bought it new, and it is in fact a 1987 model.

Turbo removal question!
 

After I get the unit removed, are there any particular items I need to inspect that my need to be repaired. The turbo in particular.

Since you'll have the engine out of the car you might as well order a gasket and seal kit and replace all seals and gaskets. Check the turbo for shaft play if it has a little its fine but if it has so much that the compressor wheel rubs the housing then its time for a new one, also make sure the inside of the turbo isn't covered in mass amounts of oil. I don't see many other things on these things going bad except for internal parts but I don't thkink yhou'll want to rip into the whole engine.

Seals and gaskets
 

I know that during the timing belt change, I will need to replace gaskets there. I also will be installing a new water pump and gasket. I located a kit including both on ebay for about 90.00 including shipping. Any thoughts on brand or type?
I suspect that the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. And for sure I will be replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets. Any suggestion about removing the manifold bolts? I sure would hate to ring one off. I do not suspect and leak in the head gasket. But should I check the bolt torque?

I would go with an Aisin water pump which is what they came with stock, and get a OEM Toyota timing belt there $34 on driftmotion.com. Driftmotion has a ton of nice replacement parts.

Oh yeah for the exhaust manifold stud nuts, they'll either come right off the stud or the whole stud and nut will come out. You should be ok.

Engine/Trans ....Removal Day One
 

Thanks guys for the advice. And Thanks for great friends. I needed to get the car from my garage to James Conner's house for the removal. Mike Kesler and Kesler's Body Shop loaned me his roll back to move the car. Boy 'I gotta get me one of deeees'...
James has a quanzit hut garage with four arm lift. His brother had it built the garage and it had more tools than six guys could use. It was an easy delivery and we had the car up on the lift in not time.
I had an hour or so, so I began removing the splash pans and draining fluids.
The trans fluid was quite dark and had a burned smell. The radiator fluid looked very green and new. The Oil was very black.

The car has been sitting for 3 years since it last ran, so I plan on draining the gas from the fuel tank as well.

While up on the rack, I will probably change the chunk dope too.

I was pleasantly surprised how clean and new everything looks. There were only two things that concern me.

When I removed the lower inner-cooler hose there was some thick oil that ran out. about two table spoons full. Not sure where that came from.
Any suggestions?

The exhaust system is in excellent shape and I need to remove it to get to the Trans bolts and brackets. I sprayed some PB Blaster up on the three header nuts but could not get them to budge using a pull bar with a pipe.

Question: are these studs in the waste gate or are they bolts and nuts. What are the chances of ringing them off, and if I do what is the repair process?
I resprayed with Pb Blaster to soak over night, and hopefully I can get them to release on day two.

Question: Do I need to take the transmission cooler line loose at front and rear, or can I do an adequate job of cleaning the cooler from the rear? What is the best technique for making sure that all the debris is remove from both the external transmission cooler and the one in the radiator.

Well still doing the research. Next will be lowering the car to get at all the parts on top of the engine.
Suggestions?

Fan and Radiator Removal
 

Is there anything I need to note before I start the radiator and shroud removal.
Also, Should I try and drop the whole exhaust system from the header back to the rear muffler or should I separate it at the catalytic converter.

I suspect that it is better to remove the nuts at the differential and take down the pilot bearing to remove the drive shaft as one unit. Right?

yes unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. then take out the two bolts holding up the center section, then just slide it right out. Drain your fluid first though.

Supra trans/engine removal day two.
 

Day 2 was about five days ago, so I will try an remember my observations with several questions to follow.

We lifted the car and I removed the dirt pans and various hoses to the cooler and radiator. .
The hoses were pretty strait forward for removal from the top. The electrical disconnects were very difficult to operate, ass the has such small latches. Can see how it would make the install easier, but hard to manage with such tight short wire connections.

The under engine is quite clean considering the 1987 age and 116,000 miles. No leaks except from the Power Steering reservoir hose. I will probably have a new one constructed, unless I can locate a cheep replacement part.

Broken parts thus far.... So easy with old plastic stuff. Radiator upper ear. I will need to epoxy it back on. The windshield washer plastic hose connections. Looking for a replacement.
While trying to get the air cleaner plenum off it cracked at the turbo charger intake.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement, preferably OEM Old New Stock for a reasonable price?

I have the fan and shroud, the radiator, the water pump fan, the alternator, and the belts removed.
Trying to determine what hose under the intake will need to come off.

I removed the Power steering hoses and let it drain.

I also need to know about the the Transmission cooling lines. Can I disconnect them from the transmission and leave in the vehicle, or are they attached to the engine.

Any suggestions of how to get the three down pipe nuts off the exhaust port on the turbocharger. The have really rusted. I have been soaking them in oil, hoping to be able to get them off. Are these studs in the exhaust flange, or are they bolts dropping through holes in the flange.

Torque Converter, any source for a replacement converter at a fair price.
When the transmission fails, it it customary to replace the converter as part of the rebuilding process?

What should I be looking for in my transmission builder for this A340E unit?

On the engine pull, what about the pipes and tubes below the intake manifold. Can they be left in place an just take out the bottom bolts in each engine mount and lift it out as a unit?

More questions later. Thanks
Prof

Are you talking about the accordion hose which is rubber and connects to the turbo or the hard plastic which holds the air filter and bolts to the afm? If you're talking about the accordion hose you can get one brand new on driftmotion.com for a pretty fair price otherwise watch the FS threads for a good shape one.

The tranny cooler lines are bolted to the engine in 3 different places iirc. If you're pulling the engine too I would just leave them attached and disconnect them at the tranny and pull the whole engine and tranny as one with the lines still attached just be careful that you don't bend them.

As for the exhaust nuts, they are studs with nuts on them. I doubt they'll break off, if anything you might just pull the whole stud out of the elbow. If they do break then you get to have a ton of fun with a drill and get some cobalt drill bits and drill them out big enough so you can retap them stock size if you can.

You should be able to reuse the torque convertor they usually don't go bad that often.

To get the engine out you will have to atleast take off the upper intake plenum. so you can just leave all those metal lines under there just make sure you get the fuel lines disconnected and all the connectors under there. The starter wires are usually kind of a bitch but with some patience and good hands you can get it.

1987 Engine and Transmission removal more questions??
 

Long POST hope you can help!:bouncy:

We were able to get the complete unit out together, but had to saw the header pipe just where it turned toward the back. Could not move the there nuts on the header. Will probably cut the nuts off and replace with new so if the exhaust requires work later, we may be able to get it off.
Is there a high temp anti-seeze you can recommend on these bolts.

Because the car has been garaged, it is in surprisingly good condition.
Only some of the short hoses and those exposed to heat will require replacing.

I have removed every thing on the exhaust side. Except the water inlet components.

I have a call into the previous owner as the timing belt looks new, to see if he had it changed. I am hoping to avoid having the extra expense and trouble of installing a replacement.

There was an oil leak in the power steering tank or hoses, and a mess on the engine block. Have cleaned all the components. Will be cleaning oil residue on the block next.

QUESTION: 1. During the exhaust manifold removal, only one nut came off the stud. The remaining studs screwed out of the head. Three of these turned out some aluminum threads.

I will be replacing the studs with new of course. Where is the best price on replacement studs?

What is the best repair solution. The bottom of the holes have threads. Will it require installing a heli-coils, or can the studs be reinstalled with epoxy i.e. jb weld. What is the torque spec on the manifold bolts?

Would you recommend anti-seeze on the studs where they go into the aluminum head?

2. Should I have the manifold machined, or will just a good wire brushing and cleaning do. What should I use on the aluminum head exhaust surface to clean it. Scotts brite on a wheel? What is the best exhaust manifold gasket? The best four hole gasket for mating the turbo to the header.

3. The intake from the blower has oil residue in all the tubes. Is there a seal that can be replaced to stop this leak. Where would I get a seal and are there any directions for the job.


4. I plan on running a compression check. Should I check the head bolt torque, or will this lead to problems. What should the head bolt torque be? And what is the bolt tightening sequence. The vehicle has 116,000 on the odometer.

5. During removal of the intake plenum with all the small hoses, I broke out some of the rubber where it meets the cross over pipe.
Are there any used new replacements available, at a reasonable price?

Well That's enough now. I will have photos soon.
Really excited bout seeing this beast run again.

no offense but i'm getting sick of answering questions that are answered numerous times on supra forums. Do some research. I would recommend joining supramania.com or supraforums.com too. From what i've seen most of the people on this site are dumbasses.

Thanks
 

Thanks for the assist you offered. I will be going else where to get assistance. However, if you see future post by me, just please ignore them . Thanks