Well, the only thing I can think of is that the ecu has time to realize what happened and fix the fuel curve as the engine revvs down.

I was reading an earlier post of yours and you said that it doesn't die off after full boost, so I'm assuming during these times you reach a higher rpm which could help support my above statement.

Fixing the problem, AFAIK, would require either tuning in some way (piggyback ecu or something along those lines) or replacing the aftermarket BOV with a factory or an aftermarket bypass valve (they do make them). You usually don't get the same sound, but they provide better performance over an OEM one. If your donor car is a turbo and has the required parts, swap them in and go for a drive. If it still happens then that's not the problem, but I really think that will fix your problem.

FYI, when I had my 7MGTE I put an aftermarket high-flow cone filter and a AFM adapter on mine and it made the turbo spool and OEM BPV much more audible

I don't know how it can do it so fast though?? It is almost instintaniously.

Is there a way to reset the computer and maybe it will fix it in itself?

Since the BOV has been on for a while...y now?

I drove it home 600 miles from mississippi and not one problem.

And what was the cone shaped thing you were talking about?
how does that set up work?

BTW: The BOV is welded on to the intake.

Resetting the computer is easy enough, just remove the 15 Amp EFI fuse from the fuse box under the hood. It's supposed to only take about 30 seconds to reset, but I always leave mine out for a few minutes.

I'm not sure how it could be reacting so quickly, but I do know that different supras react differently to aftermarket BOV's. Some will run just fine, some will not let you shift at all without it dying.

Wish I had more answers for you as far as why it's happening now

Since your bov is welded on, you'd have to replace the pipe if you changed the valve out. OEM pipes are plastic lol

Oh, and the cone air filter.... Basically it was a universal 3 inch air filter (like a K&N cone-shaped air filter). You remove the factory air box from the AFM and in it's place you can install an adapter that bolts up to the AFM on one side and allows you to clamp on an aftermarket air filter on the other side. As long as you use a decent quality air filter, you can safely allow the engine to quickly draw larger volumes of air into the intake, creating more power and better throttle response

well, I don't really want to change the whole thing, I'll go reset the ecu tomorrow when i wake up see what that does.

And i think the set up your talking about it already on there. It is a very popular aftermarket part cause a lot of the supra's i have seen are set up that way if what i think you saying is what im thinking of....lol

thanks for your help...ill post back tomorrow and let you know what happened.

Check for and post codes FIRST.... then reset all you want. FYI, there's nothing but minor trim data recorded in the ECU, unless there's another significant problem elsewhere resetting it shouldn't make a noticeable difference.


I'm thinking it may be a bad IDL switch. (codes 51)

Reset the ecu yesterday, Drove it all day, and had no problems out of it. I even shifted the car into neutral after all kill gears, 3rd, 4th, and 5th, all with no problems.

I do expect it to the problem to come back, hopefully not in the close future.

And if it does, I will check the codes.

I think my car just has a mind of its own...lol

Thanks for everyone's help.

It'll have been one hell of a glitch, but kind of cool in a weird way. Hopefully that is all you see of the matter. Check your codes again soon regardless of whether it starts driving like absolute ass: There may be more than one problem causing all of this and resolving them will help prevent the symptoms from adding up to the point of seriously affecting the car's driveability.... I don't know what the hell you've got against checking them anyway, it's easy.