Well putting it back togeather, (need a bit of help) pics
 

Putting the new ported head on, everythings going like a toyota build.. so a pain in the ass.. the only thing left to do is put oil in it, buy spark plugs and tourge the studs. but i have YET to find the tourqe specs on ARP head studs. so here goes yet another night of not hearing my car run. Does anybody know the specs and if you gotta crank em then back it off then crank again?:dunno:

Oh and i put number 1 pistion at TDC and put the cams a TDC put the belt on and cranked it 4 times to make sure it was still stright perfect and it is but then i thought.. is everything sapossed to be right at tdc? Loll.

heres how the build is going and a rear shot of the new rims :D( the car is just really dirty)`




Attachment 2975


Attachment 2976

Attachment 2977

Studs, 90ft lbs... Bolts, 75 ft lbs.

Only if you encounter striction. This shouldn't really occur is they're well lubed and you've properly chased the threads in the block... at least it is quite uncommon.

I have no idea what you're asking here.

Lol,
 

i chased the threads but two holes i did twice just because it was a pain. so there might be that encounter of striction.

as for the timing

i put it in time to were the crank and cams are all at TDC. and i was just double checking to make sure thats how there sapossed to be, for example my talon the intake cam had to be off 2 teeth advanced from tdc while crank and exhaust had to be at tdc.

just double checking and thanks for the tourqe spec, :bow:bout to get dressed, tourqe the head, put the v covers on the piping and plugs wires and start her up. nervous as hell..


Oh wait, i was gonna aask if i should run it for couple hours test drive it, then pull the valve covers back off and retourqe the studs?

Yes, everything needs to be at 0. No, one drive isn't enough for a retorqure to do any good; Generally, 5 to 7 full heat cycles (start the car when cold, run until it's at normal op temps and then drive for a while, then let cool completely... repeat.). With the fasteners this only needs to be done once when they are new and ARP says it needn't be done on studs... but it's cheap insurance, especially when dealing with components which do crush like a composite HG.




Heh, I used to always tell people not to be nervous.... I've done a couple of these now... but I've been working on upgrading to a 2mm MHG and what should have taken two days has now been going on for two weeks. It appears to be a wiring harness issue... I've had a couple local guys I know who know these engines as well (if not better) as I do come over and they're of the same opinion. :( I'm off to start testing the harness today.... :frown:

Oh, and false torque readings and striction problems are far less likely with studs than bolts. ;) Just make sure the studs are fully seated in the block.


I'm moving this thread to the MKIII section.

okay sounds good, sorry im not good at finding a good home for a thread, so we actully have a great, and i mean great condition uncut 89 turbo harness. i bought it because my tps, iac, altinator along with all kinds of other plugs were brittle and chipping away, i got it for a steal and i would pass the saving on to you, if your interested. lol



so check this out, i lined the cams notches up with the #2 timing cover notches and shined a light at the crand and the notch on the crank pully was JUUUUUSSSSt to the left/obove 0. as i gently bumped the crank dead on 0 the cams look just and im mean litlery just next the the notch's on the metal #2 T cover..


BUT it looks too close to pop the T belt off and move over a tooth, might throw the whole thing off.. i can provid a pic of how close man, so by your judgment to pop it off and move it over. but it looks great but i dont know how forgiving toyota is, this would have passed with flying colors on any of my hondas..

I'm not 100% sure I understand the question... I'd probably need pics to make a call on it. If you're judging the cranks position on the damper's markings that may be the issue right there... the rubber in the damper dries out and warps over time allowing the outer sleeve to slip putting the marking out of alignment. If its ony one or two millimeters off I wouldn't sweat it as long as the crank was really at 0 when you zeroed out the cam gears. If you judged by the damper, just pull the #1 spark plug and rotate the crank manually until the chopstick stops moving upward... now you're at TDC. ;)

A couple degrees won't keep it from running and timing's easy to redo if things don't feel right.... If I'm misunderstanding what you're dilemma is then please post some pictures.

If I were running GTE electronics I'd be all over you about the harness, but, unfortunately, I'm running a pre89 with GE electronics. Thanks though!

Lol, just throwin that out there,


yea, i was going off the timing 0, 5, 10, 15 marks on the lastic cover at the bottom and the notch on the crank, but i put it in time the first time by a long part of a plastic coat hanger in #1 and when it stalled at the peak i put those cams in TDC and roated it to make sure and it was perfect.

Man if i get to hear this thing run today ima cry, lol. miss it so much, and what ever the out come, i apprechate you time. any thing special i should know before turning the key?

No luck on my end... so now that I need to pull the harness, I'm just going to pull the engine and really dig in. If that harness was pre89 I'd probably take you up on it and just swap over to GTE electronics.... I probably should swap over anyway... I hate the way the distributor presses against the accordion hose; I suppose I'll have to look into a replacement accordion, I hear they fit better in this situation.