Coolant plugs?
I did a search but didnt find what I was looking for so I just put this out there knowing its been anwsered somewhere. I have an 87 7mge auto recently replaced headgasket and the stuff that goes with it. I didnt change the coolant plugs or #3 gasket. This is where Im starting to think I messed up. Cars been running fine but has been losing coolant, its been winter and the only smoke I see seems normal. (Im also running real rich you can smell it) So losing coolant at a slow pace didnt seem to be affecting power or causeing misses, then more recently the loss has gotten worse but still not bad but now its missing. I you get it above 1000 rpms it seems to run alright, again im having air fuel problems. No oil in coolant that I can see and no coolant getting in oil. How do I know if its the coolant plugs and how do if its the passages. I read something about that on one of cres posts.
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Wondering if anyone knows whats involved in changeing coolant plugs. |
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Thanks Bill but I think we must be atlking about two differant things. The freeze plugs are on the side of the engine the plugs Im talking about are on the head. in between the spark plugs in between the valve covers
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You are talking about the 3 plugs between the spark plug holes, because if you are I was working on mine today and was not able to get them out.
I asked at toyota and they said to use a big breaker bar but I had no luck with that so I put rtv on top of the plugs for now. I may try again when the head is back on. |
Yes those are the plugs, anyone have a little light on the subject?
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Those plugs are not in anyway connected to the coolant passages, they are oil passages from valve cover to valve cover. You will need a large allen head type socket. When you remove the #3 gasket, you can either replace it or use washers to seal them off. I think Napa carries the large brass washers. Or you can use Toyota FIPG or Honda Bond to seal them. The #3 gasket helps keep the debris from falling in the valley. Since I clean mine every so often, I decided not to replace the #3 gasket. So far no oil leak for over a year already.
As for your other problems, are you getting any engine codes? Also check your radiator cap, replace if you have not replace it yet. For missing, check your plugs, rotor and cap. Good Luck!! |
not the top plugs, the ones lower between the spark plug holes
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Ive got a new radiator cap, hoses, I flushed the coolant system after the hg repair, new water pump, new thermostat, Im def burning water, hince the miss over 1000 rpms no miss only at idle, the smoke from burning water goes away above a grand as well. Im getting coolant in the combustion chamber but not in the oil and no oil in water.
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is it cold only missfire?
The leak may occur only as the engine cools down alter it's shut down, or it may be continuous. Either way, the leaking coolant enters the combustion chamber while the engine is off. This fouls the spark plug, causing the misfire during the engine's first cold start. Once the plug has a chance to clear itself and begin firing, the misfire goes away, but not before the misfire code is stored. If any more coolant continues to leak as the engine warms up, it's burned because the plug is no longer fouled. I would suggest renting a rad pressure tester or go buy one for 60 bucks from harbor freight. pressure the rad system according to the psi on the rad cap (13 max) and see what sprays! good luck |
Actually its not as bad when the engines cold, it kinda seems to get worse after its warmed up. Holds temp though. Useally a little below half way mark I keep coolant in it other wise it probley would be overheating. Im pretty sure the coolant is only getting in while its running. The water level dosent go down after its been sitting. Only after you run it.
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Still having the same problems Ive quit driving for now guess Im going to have to tear into it and figure this out. Anyone know if there are any passages that I should check that could be leaking coolant into the cyls? Im going to start by pulling plugs to find out which ones are burning it and then go from there any suggestions will be appreciated
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Ill see if the local parts store has one for rent. I thought you were saying to test the cap. I shouldve read it better. I knew the cap was good cause I just put it on. Im really hoping its not the Headgasket again. I think if it is rather than spend the time and money doing this again Im going to go the 2jz I found a place here in Florida that says they have jdm 2jzgtes with an auto trans mission and no cut lines with ecu and stuff for 2280.
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wow. if you have the pocket change go for it.. I wouldn't pass it up. if it was in working order.
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