Not Passing emission's :-(

SDK · 03-25-2010, 04:20 AM

Why does the diagnostic jumper need to be in when setting the timing? Tried it still is the same.

Also that book referred to doesn't say much about the temp sensor. It shows that the temp sensor is the side one with green connector. If i do have a bad temp sensor would it screw up the fuel air mixture to the point of failing.

Checked codes and nothing kicks it, just keeps flashing and never stops.

Shane

P.S

Thanks for the help.

btwilson86 · 03-25-2010, 07:45 AM

The jumper is there so that the computer will not advance the ignition timing, thus allowing you to set your base ignition timing. The car at normal operating temp is also very important...

If the ignition timing is in fact the same with the jumper wire in and with it out, then you may have an issue with your ignition control module (or igniter, as I believe most people call it). When you remove the jumper wire after setting your base ignition timing, the timing should automatically advance to around 12 degrees BTDC

A faulty coolant temp sensor could be telling the ECU that the coolant is not at operating temperature when it really is, so it may be adding more fuel to it. That could cause your car to run at a high idle, as well as increasing your emissions.

SDK · 03-25-2010, 09:19 PM

So setting it the timing with jumper in. do i set it to 0 on the crank pulley and then pulling out the jumper it will set it self to 10 degree or 12 what ever it should be.

The idle is at 780 most to all the time.

SDK · 03-25-2010, 09:29 PM

just answered my own question on the timing issue. sorry

SDK · 03-25-2010, 10:23 PM

If I just wanted to pass emission couldn't i turn to distributer up and call it a day?

Shane

still would be looking into the problem but at least i would have a decent running car to drive.

SDK · 03-26-2010, 01:46 AM

checked my temp sensor and it is fine. also when the car idles and just sits there the idle is 780 and moisture out the back. never really stops.

SDK · 04-09-2010, 04:39 PM

So i clocked my distributer up and I set my throttle higher and I received the exact same score. Give or take 2 points. Could this be a bad cat? It ran for a while with the head blown, because I have now had it tested with the engine set 3 different ways and received the exact same score. This is confusing the hell out of me.

Shane

03-25-2010, 07:45 AM	#2
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	The jumper is there so that the computer will not advance the ignition timing, thus allowing you to set your base ignition timing. The car at normal operating temp is also very important... If the ignition timing is in fact the same with the jumper wire in and with it out, then you may have an issue with your ignition control module (or igniter, as I believe most people call it). When you remove the jumper wire after setting your base ignition timing, the timing should automatically advance to around 12 degrees BTDC A faulty coolant temp sensor could be telling the ECU that the coolant is not at operating temperature when it really is, so it may be adding more fuel to it. That could cause your car to run at a high idle, as well as increasing your emissions. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

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03-25-2010, 04:20 AM	#1
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	Why does the diagnostic jumper need to be in when setting the timing? Tried it still is the same. Also that book referred to doesn't say much about the temp sensor. It shows that the temp sensor is the side one with green connector. If i do have a bad temp sensor would it screw up the fuel air mixture to the point of failing. Checked codes and nothing kicks it, just keeps flashing and never stops. Shane P.S Thanks for the help.

03-25-2010, 09:19 PM	#3
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	So setting it the timing with jumper in. do i set it to 0 on the crank pulley and then pulling out the jumper it will set it self to 10 degree or 12 what ever it should be. The idle is at 780 most to all the time.

03-25-2010, 09:29 PM	#4
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	just answered my own question on the timing issue. sorry

03-25-2010, 10:23 PM	#5
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	If I just wanted to pass emission couldn't i turn to distributer up and call it a day? Shane still would be looking into the problem but at least i would have a decent running car to drive.

03-26-2010, 01:46 AM	#6
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	checked my temp sensor and it is fine. also when the car idles and just sits there the idle is 780 and moisture out the back. never really stops.

04-09-2010, 04:39 PM	#7
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	So i clocked my distributer up and I set my throttle higher and I received the exact same score. Give or take 2 points. Could this be a bad cat? It ran for a while with the head blown, because I have now had it tested with the engine set 3 different ways and received the exact same score. This is confusing the hell out of me. Shane