help please...trans problem
 

so my trans has a mind of its own apparently. so its an automatic and the 1-2 shift is at 4k rpm the 2-3 shift is also at 4k. but if it doesnt shift into 3rd and u let off the throttle it acts like pushing in a clutch pedal. Also yesterday morning it didnt want to go into reverse, like it wasnt engaging into the gear. The shifter would work and the reverse lights would come on but no moving even if u rev'd it up a lil. Eventually idk if it had to warm up but it finally did engage. Last but not least when coming to a stop, sometimes it likes to stay in gear and not drop into neutral when stopped so it stalls out and i have to neutral drop it to get get going again....Rebuild or i heard something about the linkage may need adjustment?

I don't work on automatics... just never spent time with them... Here are a couple things which come to my mind. If you've tried them or they're simply not applicable well, at least you got a free bump out of it. ;)

Have you checked your transmission fluid levels? I suspect whoever said "linkage" may have been referring to the kickdown cable inside. It's accessible by pulling the pan but you'll need to drain everything first. Is your speedometer working? Have you checked for diagnostic codes?

Here's a link to Toyota's service manual's section on the auto:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=AT&P=1

shoot just tighten the kick down cable anyhow. better for your tranny. slam that bitch into gear.

fluids are good i put a new filter and gasket in (thinking maybe the solenoids were sticking). Where is this kickdown cable? can it be too loose? or too tight?

to loose yes. to tight, not really. the tighter it is the harder your trans will "kick it" into gear. <- i can do puns too! the kickdown cable should be located next to the throttle linkage. IIRC ill dig for a diagram later.
I found this thread too.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t280785.html
talks about acouple tranny issues.

I'd have to disagree with that statement, the kd cable can be to tight & has nothing to do with how hard it slams into gear. All it does is drop back a gear when you "kick down" the throttle and as such needs to be set so it operates at the last bit of pedal travel, or youll be running in 2nd everywhere drinking fuel and killing the motor. To be honest though i think the fault is more likely a sticking valve internally and this usually means a rebuild. You could try adjusting the actual cable/link from the shifter but i'd get a specialist to do that even since doing it wrong can mean the car can slip into gear unexpectedly or even be started in reverse. If the specialist says it is internal you could try changing the fluid before spending out (assuming the level is correct now, make 100% with a hot check first of all before jnything else)

fixed it...throttle position sensor was stuck...:dance:

Gotta love the simple fixes...

You know, had ya checked that would have shown a code 51 and told you the source of the problem right away. ;) <---- Just a reminder for everyone here... even me.

Ahaha, just gotta laugh. Definitely a worthwhile reminder that the cel/eml is there for a reason. Tbh i'm surprised it caused those symptoms, would have expected a lot of stalling and low idle but then by stuck do you mean a permanent idl signal? Thats not too common and not sure it would even throw a code, either way glad its fixed and cheaply! :)

No, the tabs would have to be broken for the TPS not to move when the throttle does. What happens is that the TPS gets gummed up to the point that you press the throttle and after you let off the TPS is stuck indicating a higher throttle level than actual and there is no IDL signature. You will at least get a code 51 in this case.