The check engine light is easy to wire up. One side of the lamp goes to a 12v source (the 7.5A Gauge fuse in the stock setup) and the other to the pin labelled "W" at the ECU (see the EFI section of the TSRM for the pinout).

Some codes will set without the engine running... it's always worth checking.

hooked up engine light got nothing . i also decided to test the injector resistor box on the passenger side and power at the ecu and its good . but i check for power at the afm and there was none and i am also wondering if there should be power going to the injectors with the key on the on position

would a faulty tps have anything to do with this ?

No the TPS is only a trim sensor... the car can be driven without it, throttle response and idle just suck and it'll like to stall if the IDL switch is damage or the TPS is actually disconnected.

Yes, the injectors will have power with the ignition in the ON position... they won't have a ground as that's supplied by the ECU.

Engine light??? You replaced the check engine light or what? Pull the glove box out and test the ECU for +12v at Batt, B+ and B1+. I can't provide a pinout as you haven't filled out your profile or mentioned in this thread what year your car is... but those are the pins you need to check. Batt should always have power and +B and +B1 are both ignition switched.

the car is an 85 corolla but the motor is from a 91 supera.

ok checked the b+ and b1+ and they both have power . now i said before that the injectors did not have power going to then well i had a the wrong year ecu on it and now they have power. so i have spark, power to injectors , power to the ecu, power and all functional resistors but still same result no start!!

i updated my profile

Have you actually measured the fuel pressure yet? Are you sure the CPS is clocked right and not 180 degrees off? Have you inspected the CPS to ensure that the pickups are properly gapped? You're running all the 7M-GTE's electronics and engine harness correct?

FIXED IT!!!! lol

im dumb when i wired the igniter to the coil packs i miss matched a wire. and this yellow wire that goes to the egniter was barely attached to the plug lol

im an idiot .

so it start and runs pritty damn good but it has a tuff time starting and when i push the throttle it bogs a bit on the way up . i would say that it smooths out and climes nice and strong after about 3,000 rpm.

its almost as if it has a bad cold start or and its getting a bad o2 reading on eccelaration .......idk . would it have anything to do with the fact that its running of the manifold and down pipe ?

you have any idias ?

Since it can now run longer than 5 seconds, before anything else I'd check your ignition timing. You're almost guaranteed to be off a little, and that could be what's causing the hard start and boggy acceleration (it only takes being a couple of degrees off to run like crap)

I checked the timing a few times allready thinking it was that to begin with. It's dialed in. Once it warms up it runs to smooth for it to be out of calabration . I can check it again but I'm possitive that every thing is were it should be in reagards to timing