Soo today I took my exhaust manifold to my auto tech class to sand it down some and I looked at the side that the turbo mates to after I sanded it. And there's a crack that goes through the exhaust manifold and streatches down the length of the mating surface and down one of the exhaust ports on the inside. Soo now I need a new exhaust manifold.

I'm glad I cought it before I put the turbo on it and blew it up. I was wooundering if I should try to find a stock one at a pick a part place or if there's an aluminum one that I could upgrade to.

Ill try to get those pictures up tonight I just havnt had much time.

P.s. the manifold studs are seating well in the block and are looking great : )

I have decided I need a downpipe soon. What exhaust and downpipe do you recomend? Normal, simi divorcer, or a divorced downpipe? Iv been looking at the hks super drager and blitz nur spec exhaust and I can't decide what I want. Anyone have any input on this situation.

Sorry I havnt gotten the pictures up yet I havnt been home too much but for sure ill get you guys an update when I get out of school or off work today.

Ohh and how do I change the name of the thread? Someone mentioned changing it for better results.

DDP ftw. there are some dyno results posted somewhere either here or supra mania. guy ran the dyno stock.. then with regular dp. then with DDP and posted each result. the ddp was by far the best.

I read that it makes the car extreamly loud while under boost. this isnt really a problem but just how loud is it going to be lmao and with a divorced downpipe can i still put in a BOV and have it function properly? Im pretty sure i want the HKS SSQBOV (eventually) i loved it once i saw it and i loved it even more when i heard it working on a WRX that drove by me not even accelerating hard and you still get a nice crisp and clean sound from it.

heres some pics of the progress (not mush because the manifold is cracked) ill take a pic of the manifold tonight to show the damage.

Heres the new exhaust manifold studs installed

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0816.jpg
And these are my plug wires and a random assortment of gaskets, niuts and bolts.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0821.jpg

If noise is a big concern you can get a semi divorced DP. It's pretty much a DDP where the wastegate dump is plumbed back into the exhaust down past the firewall. (N/m, I see you already saw the semi-divorced DPs)

DDP's can be quite loud, but it depends on the car, the engine load, the amount of boost and so on. They're usually not too loud at part throttle boosting, but like I said, it depends on the car.

Personally, if I ever decide to ditch my HKS, I'll be going with a semi-DDP.... I prefer quiet and my car is already way too loud for my tastes.

I was thinking about that too i like loud but i dont want to be so ridiculously loud that my neighbors complain lol I already had mty neighbor come over once because i have a catback on my altima and its pretty loud even with the scilencer in (not going to take it out).

i like the idea of the semi divorced down pipe but wouldn't it defete the purpose of it being divorced in the first place? Im not too up to date with parts for boosted cars. this is my first turbo (and its freakin sexy i might add :) )

What DP are you running with from HKS? Is it normal, semi or fully divorced?

Your running a stock CT26 also right? (n/m i read your signature and answered my question)

Living near a high school, I've come to hate people like you... but N/A hondas with gutted cats and 3" exhausts are MUCH louder than most turbo'd cars... little f@#$ers.

It's a trade off... you still get much better response from the turbo... a DDP doesn't make you any more power.

It's just a regular type 3" DP... I'm planning on adding an upgraded/segmented elbow and just keeping it.

Yeah, until I get together enough cash to send in one of my others for a rebuild.



EDIT: A DDP isn't going to make any additional noise when you're not boosting though. Stay light on the throttle when driving residentially and you're fine.

well i said id get some pics of my manifold here they are :help:

Got the exhaust side looking all nice...
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0825.jpg

Only to get to the other side and find this...
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0824.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0823.jpg

The crack went all the way through and looks like the passage its on is cracking down to on the inside.

ohh and the 400 grit sandpaper worked amazing! thanks cre!

i live near a high school also my car isnt really that loud the neighbors were like whos car is making all the noise. i just moved in at the time and being curious i guess. theres a lowered N/A honda civic Hatchback around here it sounds like a giant mosquito being amplified through a coffee can lol

The pipes i was looking at had the turbo elbow built into the DP. Do you think i should get one with a flex section in it also??

the guys at powerfab said they could make me a 3 Inch custom catless exhaust from turbo back with v-band connectors for around $1100. thats about the price of a full exhaust from suprastore with the TSM DP.

deffinatly going to go with a divorced or semi divorced DP. just dont know which and which brand to trust. i heard Bic had soem nice ones but i havnt heard of them before.

BIC's been around for a long time. I'd have no hesitation about buying one.



Some of the kids around here are absolute shitheads... there's one kid with some ancient BMW 3xx series, spray painted camo and running open headers... it's a piece of crap and he's revs the engine for the hell of it all the time and then looks around for reactions. One of these days I'm going to shoot him (I probably shouldn't admit to that, huh? Won't go well if the court finds out I was planning the whole thing.).

Well thats reassuring. they look like good quality goods but so do some of the ebay knockoffs. They say in the description that they dont hang really low like some others do. thats a good thing to i dont want my 250-500 dollar DP getting wacked and ripped off by some random item in the street.

Yeah i feel the same way about this dude in the honda. he drove arond with a doughnut on for about 3 months. its all falling apart and looks like a POS in my opinion. I think the Eibach lowering springs he put on cost more than his car did.

jesus christ. if i ever piss you off give me a chance to apologize ; )

Nay, for I am a cruel and angy god.... er... um, guy. Okay, actually I'm rather forgiving... this guy's just been an intentional ass so long that my patience is finally burning up. (and I do know where he lives... parks that POS outside too... hmmm... might have go over in the dead of night and weld a muffler on it. ;) )

Hahaha that will show him. Bmw's are loud with just a cat back i cant imagine what its like with open headers.

Has anyone on here bought a new OE Exhaust manifold from Toyota?When i got the turbo back none of the studs for the waste gate, water/oil lines were on it. I just wanted to know if its going to be the same way with the manifold.

I have all the nuts and bolts written down and on an order from champion, i just havnt ordered it yet. i couldnt find the the studs for the turbo side of the exhaust manifold or the studs for the oil and water lines there. the parts numbers dont work. the upper and lower studs are different sizes to i believe.

These were the numbers i used:

Turbo side Exhaust manifold studs
17141G

Turbo Water line studs
1712B

Turbo oil line studs
17021A

Waste gate studs
7025A

I believe these cross reff. to newer parts id have to drive up to Joe Myers to find out.

Sweet!! i just found out i get free shipping from Champion Toyota : ) saved me like 15 bucks : ) im already liking them not only are they alot cheaper you get the actual toyota OE part and i dont have to pay shipping!!

What is Champions web site. I have just got a bunch of stuff from http://www.toyotapartszone.com:80/on...M)&sectionID=1 Here
The parts are easy to look up and and they had every hose I needed and the number 3 gasket.
Tim

The site is http://www.championtoyotaparts.com/ once you get there just click on "order toyota parts online" and go from there.

Ill check the site you posted to. I found out Horsepower Freaks sells the o2 housing studs i need but its like $13 with shipping for 4 studs.

www.toyotaworld.com will take you there too.

wow that site has everything i need and they have diagrams to make sure your getting the right part. thanks suprax! saved me a trip to joe myers lol : )

So my Fiance's brothers friend decided he wanted to hall ass out of our driveway and ran in to my parked (well down the street from the drive way) car and destroyed my driver side passenger door and part of the rear quarter panel, and pushed my car into the curb and most likely fucked up my rim ( i cant tell im pretty much blind at night), soo if he or his insurance company doesnt pay for my dammages then i just got screwed out of 2000-3000 dollars i was going to use for the supra. FML!

ohh and to make it worse my insurance changes to a new company tomorrow and my old POS insurance wont be open untill monday or tuesday at the latest and they will probably give me absolute shit! FML AGAIN!

this is the part were you say Wacka wacka!
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...ozzie-bear.jpg

i called the insurence company today a clames person should be able to come out on monday or tuesday but id have to miss work to deal with them

I got my oil lines in today : )
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/100_0862.jpg

I also found out today that the insurance company may total my car because of the possible extent of the damages. this sucks be cause it almost completely screws me out of the only money i have saved for collage and to get the remaining needed parts for the supra.

Well at least i got a raise last week and i have a steady job....

What size and how many of each bend do i need to convert to hard pipes? and how many couplers and reducers and what not are needed?

(Please forgive me if someone has told me the answer to this in this form in the past month i forgot what all was needed)

Ok on toyotaworld i looked up the exhaust manifold and i got 5 options 2 w/o turbo and 1 with turbo, but the other 2 are different one is cressida, federal and the other is cressida, calif which is the one i need?? the one that says w/ turbo?

Is your car Cali spec or not? I'll get you the correct part number.... or you could order it by phone from Champion (ToyotaWorld).

How do i know if its a cali spec car? i talked to the guys at power fab they got it for 213 or somehting toyota world is better but i dont want to order the wrong manifold and wait another 2 weeks to have a car to drive.

ohh yeah the insurance company totaled my altima today so i need to get my baby running so i can drive to school and work. i got some pics if anyone is interested sad to see her go to the insurance company from some dude that cant back out of a driveway.

Okay, sorry.... just the manifold? On the GTE it doesn't matter if it's fed vs CA. The manifold p/n is 17141-42010. MSRP is $216 and change; Champion has it for $189.54, but shipping is going to hurt.

Don't forget to replace the exhaust gasket. ;)

Cool thanks again. Idk if I should use toyota world or power fab. The shipping is probably 20 oe so.

The exhaust manifold gasket is one of the first parts I bought

ok so i decided to get my manifold through Powerfab his connection can have it to me by Tuesday or Wednesday direct from Toyota.

I got some of the parts from champion toyota and toyota partszone today i think they may have sent me the wrong studs ill have to check tomorrow

sooo i got my insurance check today for my altima. i got 3211.50 for it : ) 1200 of which is going into the supra!!!

Ok so i got the studs in for the turbine housing and i tried to put them on the turbo and they are stripping out. they thread on untill the stud tapers to actual size threads. its the exact toyota part number and everything i dont understand why they wont work... any suggestions this was suposed to just glide on but it wont even thread in more than a millimeter :mad:

If it's not threading in more than a millimeter it's most likely the wrong thread pitch.

What part number did you order and what did you get? Have you verified the p/n in the EPC?

I ordered it from toyota parts zone and the diagram and the listing was for 17025A and the parts number that replaces it was 90116-10125.

these studs are suposed to be the same ones for the exhaust manifold/turbo mounting studs as well, but i havnt been able to try them in a manifold mine hasnt come in yet.

I emailed toyotapartszone last night still no reply... The part numbers matched what was on the bags they sent but the part in the bag must be wrong i guees. thats the only thing i can think of. i was going to order them through HPF and see if those fit, but im not sure i should i may get the same part again...

The diagram im refering to is the EPC. On the the Toyotapartszone site the EPC picture is there while you order so you can look at what you are "SUPPOSED" to get when they mail it to you.

I'd look up the thread pitch for the studs and then take one to a hardware store and use their gauge (or even just go through the metric nuts) to find out what the thread pitch of the stud you have is. Do the threads in the turbo housing look like they may be mangled at all?

Its an m10 1.25 pitch. the threads looked good except for the one I tried to force the stud into. I called powerfab and they are going to figure it all out. He said hell get me new hardwar. Either new studs or bolts that will work

You want studs; More accurate torque and higher clamping force... plus, if one side seizes up you can still get the turbo off.

I didn't even think about that. Ill have to call power fab on Monday and see if he can get studs for sure. Thanks for that lol I'm sure you just saved e a nightmare and a turbo. If the bolts seizes id be screwed

Nah, you'd just be crying and sweating with bloody knuckles by the time you do get it off... But there are reasons auto makers (not just Toyota) prefer studs. ;)