?Rebuilt Motor Help!!!
 

:weak:ok My rebuilt motor had alot of problems.. now im stuck with what to do.... It has a exhaust manifold leak at the block,No power steering,Leak valve covers, and needs normal tune plugs wires belts fluids. well the turbo just went out.... im guessing not enough oil it was running 8?....

Im looking at over 1k to get this thing running straight...:umno:. Should I keep this damn thing or just swap a 1j in their??I really want the 1jz anyway??.... just not sure dont want to Spend money to swap the motor and start looking at new intercooler and exhaust and tune up??
I could sell the 7m? hell Anyone wants it Ill sell the 7m with r154 for what 900$$... you supply shipping..new internals balenced blueprinted bored out slightly

I really need help I dunno if I should swap it since it would almost cost as much I found a very clean 40k 1jz with tranny for 1800$ and to swap it is 500$$ hell just to buy and fix my turbo problem would be 800$ for a decent turbo and new manifold+gasket.

Fix Old 7m or sell and swap?

you can see the car on my space.. www.myspace.com/prfmusic
comments bitchs moans complaints all welcome

:uh: Okay, it has all those problems AFTER it was rebuilt? If that's the case you really need to bitch-slap whoever did the rebuild for not taking care of all that stuff when it was put back together. That's SOP... Reassemble, check for leaks and functioning of all the assorted bolt-on parts and take care of any problems you find BEFORE it goes back to the owner or back on the road as road-worthy.

My opinion on selling it? I seriously doubt that you'll be able to get $900 for your engine and tranny with what you've told us. If the turbo did indeed die from oil starvation, then your nice blueprinted engine could easily have sustained at least some internal damage from the same culprit, low oil pressure or insufficient of oil flow. With the rest of the description of the problems it has I have to admit that I wouldn't touch it for even half of what you'd like to get out of it.

Some so-so good news is that you can get that turbo rebuilt or get a quality unit from DM or a couple of other places for about $500. You'd still have to install it, but you wouldn't have to worry about a DM turbo so long as you keep clean oil going to it. That applies to any turbo for that matter.

Not trying to be a downer here, but I'm really unsure what to recommend for you. My take would be to accomplish the aforementioned bitch-slapping of whoever put the engine back together with the accessories & stuff and then settle-in for a (depending on your level of disposable income) possibly prolonged downtime to fix the various external problems you have and cross my fingers that nothing vital internally (like rod bearings) suffered from a lack of oil. Send your turbo to DM (if they still want yours rather than just selling you one of theirs), and while it's off being rebuilt (and upgraded if you'd like, they do a great 57-trim upgrade) work on whatever gaskets & wiring issues you have or need to check on.

hmm
 

I Don't have much time.. If I could sell the whole motor and tranny for 400$ Id be ok... for A turbo that was 500$ a power steering pump maybe 200$ new hoses and the pump and fluid .... Valve cover gaskets maybe 40$ and time i probably wouldn't have and it needs all general tune up
thats 1100 bucks... I could buy a motor for that and put my tranny on that 1jz???...

Then forget the swap... Swaps always cost a lot more than you seem to think once the little things start popping up, take a lot longer than straight swapping in another of the same engine AND you have no guarantee that it will be in any better shape.

^ What he said. Swapping in a different model engine is never as simple as it's sometimes made out to be.

Hmm Well how much would It cost to fix a exhaust leak/new turbo... turbo is about 500$ ... can you fix a manifold leak?... I dunno if the damn block is stripped or what.. the shit looks rusty but I dunno if I want to fuck with it more and make it worse?.. I got the time and tools to tinker just nothing to major.. 2 days of free time.. hmmmm i dont need powersteering..
my tranny just started makeing some weird noise today like the damn things running dry or something... no clue ... bleh I think I would be Sinking money into a black hole on this than on A replacement With any diffrent problems!!!

mine Runs Great... Everything else is Shit!!! plus starter relay is intermittant
so youve deterred me from a swap for now... till I atleast pay this thing off.

Exhaust manifold leaks aren't unknown on the 7M. In fact, if I remember correctly the relative softness of the head allows the EM studs to back/strip out eventually. That could well be the cause of your exhaust manifold leak. One of the better aftermarket Supra parts suppliers stocks a replacement stud kit for this, works like a charm and is under $100.

That leads to the question, are you certain the leak is at the manifold and not at the elbow or other gasketed joint? No matter where it is you'll want to fix it before you run it again or the exhaust gasses will start eroding & possibly cutting the surfaces, making sealing the thing back up difficult without some machining work.

You can get your turbo rebuilt for less if money is an overriding issue. There's a place in Canada I sent mine too a few years back, they did a good job on it for about $300. Blast Performance I think the name of the place was.

And don't let us talk you into or out of anything. We're simply making some observations and presenting our opinions and the reasoning behind them. Only you know your exact situation, how much time & money you're prepared to put into the car.

Yeah, helicoil kits; Some of which accept the stock studs some come with new studs. BTW - They're a miserable HELL to install with the head still on the engine... I do NOT recommend trying it. Get it in crooked or crack the surrounding metal and you're really hosed. /disclaimer ;) I've never experienced any trouble with a stud pulling out, but it is common. Make sure you don't over torque the studs, it'll help with the longevity and durability of the threads in the head.

Agreed.

Found the kit I was talking about, as luck would have it it's a Drift Motion set...

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...uststudkit.php

Haven't used it myself, but several people at SupraMania who have gotten it swear by it for taking care of pulled studs. I don't remember how many of them attempted the repair with the head still on the engine though. ;)

A few, the rest learned from their mistakes. :rolleyes2

well Im a Marine So I mean I can Buy what I need... Im not rich but I do pour my heart and soul into this car.. lol Its my shitty car dream.. and the car just needs to be put into my garage and Rebuilt ground up.. the harness scares me suspension blow.. rear calipers seized I just redid the Brake lines cause they were rusted.. new interior redid the guages, snapped the speed cable due to the line holding the cable Broke and was bending the cable:crazy2:
Its a Good motor just Every small thing that could need replaceing Does.. haha... I think the tranny has a Leak?

Ok Well I look at it this Way my Subframe Fits a 1jz 90 7m my friend has a 89 and basically Told me all the wrong things he did.. and helped me plan out my swap. If I do a swap basically everythings Compatible BUT Id need to rig up something for the intercooler and Exhaust... other than that its straight Forward buy the motor... and some general stuff Timing oil oilfilter and hopefully the coils are good. then just hope the new one has powersteering for comfort and call It good for 6-8 months till I can Redo all the cooling and breathing factors of the motor... Im looking at these numbers

around 1500-2000$ to Fix My current nightmare... or b 2600 to get the 1j in and maybe another 5-600 to get a custom exhaust and intercooler I found a intercooler for 100$ new from a buddy for a 1j and I can Make my own Exhaust the weekend after the swap I know a Fab shop has tons of extra piping.. Cut weld my own 3" up call It all A Great cheap quick job put a bic and Tip on it later.. .

Im just really stuck... I think my car is getting like 12mpg with no turbo llol plus I have NO power its annoying... I can take out a small Loan To get one or the other project started... btw this is my First supra and wont be the last hopefully a mk4 will come in 3-4 years ill buy something more complete lol not a halfway shitty project car..

thanks alot for the help so far you both have given me some things to think over I know Those Studs Are notorious for probs I can look at them and play around with my manifold Im 100% sure its leaking at the block I felt around.. Its been driven like that for awhile... not Too long ... one oil Change?heh .... wasn't worried I was thinking I would swap the motor.. btw i'd rather just buy a new turbo if i was to keep the 7m

my 7mgte also has an exhaust leak. after the head was rebuilt I had just about everything in place and realized i had a stripped and F that noise of Undoing all the work. an exhausting 3 days. so I came up with a solution of getting a concrete lag bolt that would seal up my hole. either that or remove the head, tap, re assemble. which im prolly going to do anyhow. but with the lag bolt I would not need to remove my entire head. sorta a quick fix.

a side note.. exhaust leaks left unchecked will burn up the head and valv cover gaskets over time. my 2 cents on the rebuild or swap. the break down and repair of your 7m will be time consuming, expensive. I would suggest checking the integirity of the remaning moter to even see if its repairable then make a decision. think of what is going to be needed in the rebuild and assign it a value based on how important it is to you. the higher the importance the higher the number.. Money, is this important? if so assign it a high number. time? how important is that.. assign it a number.. (1-20 works) manual labor.. things of this nature. now do it for the 1jz swap and see wich has the higher numarical value. go with the lower one.

Thanks good idea... my 7m will needs too much... im about 80% sure a new motor is the solution and ill look at your quickfix... after i look at my leak.. its so annoying... My old Turbo burnt up... I was running it at 12 psi... Could it burnt up of lack of oil or something?? I heard ppl running them at that and though wouldve been ok.. it was rebuilt had 5k on it...

yea everything was stock.. Good solid 40 oil pressure.. but maybe it wasn't breathing enough or the oil line got a clog in it or isnt flowing enough?... who knows i pushed it hard and it said f me haha ..get treated how you treat

TURBO UPGRADE: The factory turbo is able to run boosts up to 14 psi (1 bar). Trying to boost above this is plain useless. . For anything over 14 psi a new block with forged pistons is necessary.

found that.. so 12 psi should of been fine.
http://www.toysport.com/technical%20...tech_notes.htm
thats were i found it. just a little lite reading about different things.

12psi is fine, unless you have a boost leak it would still be within the turbos efficiency window. After 14 to 15 psi the turbo pushes more hot air than anything and it's well beyond the capacity for most intercoolers to make up for. If you had a boost leak you could have easily over worked the turbo.

From what I've seen even 1JZ's advertised as rebuilt that sell for around $1K are often in sad shape... Used is still, afterall, used. ;) I really don't think you understand entirely what's involved in the swap or have an unrealistic view of the entire scenario. I've yet to read reports from someone who said it was cake and went without a hitch and only took three days as planned. It's your car though, so have at it. You'll find there is a section over at www.supramania.com specifically for MKIII swaps such as the 1JZ, 2JZ and 1UZ where you'll find a great deal of information and advice. You should check it out.

Good luck!



Green, just from skimming it, that site's a little dated... as a community we've learned much since. Much like the SOGI site, it's a good reference for some basic info, but isn't a good source of current and up to date information. The details about 16psi warping the head is garbage, N/A cams have been proven to cause an overall power LOSS, they are NOT a good high-rev engine (tend to grenade much past 8000RPM unless destroked, from what I've read). There are MUCH better, up to date references online if you look around.

so whats a couple theories on my turbo seize that it couldve had a leak? got over worked?? should i be worried to put a new one on before completely redoing intercooler exhaust intake tubing?

How to kill a turbo 101:

1) Lack of oil - This can be accomplished a number of ways, a blockage is possible but not common from what I've heard.. Low motor oil while trying to drift is when this one seems to become the choice method for the turbo's departure.

2) Overworked/overspun - Boost leak. With a boost leak the turbo will have to work extra hard to make up for a pressure being dumped from the system. So, if you've got a leak that's venting 5psi the turbo has to make 17psi to actually get you 12psi at the manifold.

3) Overworked/overspun (part 2) - Seized wastegate. You be seeing ever increasing boost from this as the device used to control the boost pressure in the manifold isn't opening allowing the turbo to slow.

4) Broken shaft in the turbo due to compressor surge. This can occur if the BOV isnt up to the task or is inoperable... I don't know how common it is though, the CT-26 is pretty robust. This could also occur due to the stresses induced by any of the problems listed above.

5) Excessive oil pressure - A blockage in the oil drain from the turbo can cause the oil to back up VERY fast. This can result in a blown oil seal. Generally you'd find yourself burning a lot of oil though; I don't know how likely seizure is.

These are the reasons I know of, there may be some things I'm not thinking of or tham I'm unaware of.

What weight oil have you been running?

10w-30 hmm i could of had Some Boost leak and the Wastegate could have not been venting off enough also... I have a turbo xs boost controller now...
hmm... I have a Clutch master cylinder leak .... manifold leak and need a new turbo plus plugs belts oil change hmmm
Im Leaning towards buying a new turbo... hmmm... now am i better upgradeing turbos to a 57 or 60-1 trim?? and just keep the boost at a lowering 8 psi
I really want to motor swap but I dunno about the exhaust and intercooler... I will start asking around on the other site.
Keep posted whatever is happenging should be soon I found basically all the parts for whatever step im gonna take.

My two cents? You don't want to do a 60-1 upbuild with the CT26. Too much wheel in the relatively small housing, questionable reliability as far as upgrades go. The 57 trim is about your best bet for a CT26 upgrade/upbuild... good power, not too much lag, and pretty reliable.

I concur. I've read a lot of posts about shafts breaking on 60-1 upgrades. I wouldn't even think about an upgraded turbo unless you're upgraded your fuel system though... and preferably have a means of tuning.