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oxygen sensor questions
so i just got my hands on an xtune air fuel ratio gauge for free and i heard it only works with a wideband o2 sensor so i wanted to know if the stock sensor in my 87 supra turbo is wide or narrow band
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The stock sensor is a narrowband.
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is there anyway to make it wideband cuz i want to install this gauge
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Well, I've got the answer, but you're not going to like it....
YES, you can add a wideband to your car! The problem is that there is more to it than just adding a sensor and making a couple wiring changes. You also need a controller. The least expensive option I know of would be one of the gauges by ProSport. Including gauge you're looking around $220. This is only if you're only looking for a gauge, not programmable and I don't believe it has additional outputs which you'll want if you end up adding a system that can integrate with a wideband such as the MAFT Pro. Now, since you've already got the gauge you could get the LC-1 by Innovate Motorsports for $199. Look around and you may be able to find it on sale. The LC-1 is a popular and reliable unit, I own one myself. You may add an aftermarket gauge or Innovate's gauge for an additional price. |
alright i will look into getting one of those. um does it just hook right up or so i have to do a bunch of wiring? and does it do anything performance wise? and also do you know how i can test my oxygen sensor? cuz im getting the error code that says it aint working. thanx for your help
oh and thank you so much for your help i always appreciate someone who is just there to help people in need :) |
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The main difference between a wide band and narrow band oxygen sensor is that a narrowband sensor is really only able to read a very small area. It reads for Lambda or stoichiometric: an optimal burn. With gasoline this represents 14.7 parts of air to every 1 part of gasoline. The problem with narrow band sensors is that as you get away from Lambda the sensor isn't capable of reading anything other than "rich" or "lean". A narrow band sensor is more of a switch; rich, optimal, lean.... that's all. The ECU adjusts fueling to keep this stoichiometric mixture by adding and removing fuel as the narrow band's signal bounces back and forth from rich to lean very rapidly (That's also why AFR gauges don't serve any purpose with a narrow band sensor). A wide band can read a great deal of the spectrum and report conditions outside of Lambda with a great deal of accuracy; Unfortunately, the sensors are more expensive, delicate and require more hardware to control and calibrate. Here is a *decent* article on oxygen sensors on Wikipedia. Quote:
Oxygen Sensor Testing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?S=FI&P=119 You DO need an analog meter to test it. Quote:
Do me a favor, please; work on your capitalization, punctuation and grammar... it makes it easier for me to help you if I don't have to reread posts. ;) |
Alright, and one more thing. you said another bung would have to be welded to the exhaust for the oxygen sensor to screw into, where exactly does that go, i.e. on downpipe? after downpipe? after test pipe?
Do i have to put another oxygen sensor in or can i just replace the stock sensor? |
I killed a WB sensor by placing to too close to the manifold on my N/A. A lot of people have no problem placing their WB in the elbow after the turbo though. You definitely want it before the cat, as close to the header as possible without it getting too hot. From asking around it's very common to place it in the downpipe right after it bends under the firewall (that's where mine was on my N/A setup and where it is on my turbo setup).
As for replacing the stock sensor or adding another... depends entirely on how you're setting up and tuning the car. Some setups require both, some require only the wideband, and others can use the wideband to supply a stock NB signal to the ECU. For your purposes you may replace the stock NB sensor with the WB and program one of the LC-1's (or whatever WB you go with, as long as it has programmable outputs or a NB output) to supply a NB signal to one of the two analog outputs and the other will supply a WB signal to the gauge. |
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7mgte 475 to the rear wheels with no o2 at all unplugged and still running factory ecu and injectors and no e-manage either |
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First off that article doesn't cover all the specifics for all the cars, just some of the major point... go figure, it's just a textbook. There's a group of engineers on SupraMania who've reverse engineered the complete TCCS... go talk to them about it, it's dizzying. The O2 sensor isn't employed to reduce exhaust temps... it actually INCREASES them by leaning out the fuel mixture. Disconnect it and you'll be running in the 13's or richer and richer = cooler. EGR is employed to bring down cylinder temps. Quote:
God, all this jack assery has actually made me dizzy. Claims these cars don't even use an O2 sensor, then is suddenly an expert on how and when they do, what they're used for (which is also wrong) and he built a dragster out of his without making any mods????? :umno: |
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first machine work, bored 50 over and it was also line bored because the thrush bearing spun chewed the block pretty good. then after market header and turbo with 46mm exteral waste gate, 3'' flow thru exhaust, greddy bolw off ,air flow meter housing from toyota ls 400 the 4.0 v8 (wich lets me hit about 22psi @7500rpm before fuel cut) and then a fuel pressure regtulater ajusted to about 62 psi when boosting 50 @ idle. and oh ya i also got the n/a intake cam with a aem adjustable cam gear bolted to the front of it. i almost forgot the rotating assembly was bought from rock performance with crome rings and i had it shot peened. beleive me im pushing 475hp buddy and ill put my money where my mouth is! you live florida? come visit my shop als affordable auto and trans lake park fl. licensed and insured look it up come see. |
You're so full of shit I can even taste it and I'm not pleased. So much wrong here it's beyond funny and stupid, it's insulting. The fact that you're trying to push it on other people is even worse. We HAD another member just like you... made our forum famous in a real crap way... I don't care for that sort of attention again... Goodbye.
I'll cut to the cliff notes and you can Google the rest when you reformulate your line of crap for whatever site you try it out on next (TIP try to avoid significantly old data as it may have been idle speculation which has been completely dispelled in recent years): The 7M-GE intake cam has been dyno proven to be a significant BOTTLENECK past about 4KRPM... it just chokes the engine beyond that and the power curve falls flat... Go back to a GTE cam and you'll hit 500. The Lexus AFM (just like the any other AFM) tells the ECU how much air is coming in whether you're pushing 12psi or 300psi and the ECU cuts fuel at the same volume of air either way. The Lexus AFM isn't good for anything beyond 350RWHP without modification and/or a fuel controller. You work at a shop but for some reason think that not all cars sold in North America after 1980 have oxygen sensors??? And then that they're just they're for your own diagnostic purposes??? :dunno: Oh, and you think the O2 sensor is for controlling engine temps???? Specifically keeping them down? RIIIIIIIIIGHT. |
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