ohhhh man well due to time constraint and my absolute phobia to get things right........

im gonna go with the rebuild


soooooooooooooo the journey consinues....


http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...fc2db6f950.jpg

got the throttle body off....


http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...901ca76e06.jpg

no more intake manifold.....

honestly im no genius either when it comes to cars but hey, how hard can it be?.......
:help: lol

I wish you best of luck cause after the rebuild, you're probably gunna wish the time and money spent were on a swap as the power you probably want still won't really be there. However, on the flip side, once you do achieve the rebuild, it will be a feeling of great accomplishment that I could only be envious of and give you props for trying if nothing more.. hope you get it done tho. As for how hard can it be? Well, I don't think you need an IQ over 145, but you might want to do some homework and review first... some things require precision down to millimeter specs... and just like with planes, a couple millimeters off here, or there, could result in disaster or failure of a lesser degree. Keep postin pix like Oregonjoe did, please... I'd like to see how it's going as well as see what's all involved incase I'm unable to get my hands on a 7mgte swap when my car needs it...

oh man so i remember Oregonjoe saying something about having alot of band-aids ready.... i sould have taken that advice. this engine has sooo many tight bolts that are just frozen over the years and of course i end up slammin my elbow into crap trying to loosen them up.... ouch.

ok but enough complaining. here we are now. just got the bottom part of the manifold off.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2acd2dfae1.jpg

bhu - n shit!!! sprinklers just went off on me..... (im on the computer in my front lawn next to the car........

i guess my parents changed the sprinkler times....

anyways so the more and more im working on this i cant help thinking i might keep this car n/a for a while instead of the usual turbo but then ill still do the w58 or r154 swap. like you said Krem, im pretty sure ill feel majorly accomplished after this.

Unless there's a problem with your W58 I'd wait on the R154 swap and swap it in when you get the GTE. It's a much heavier transmission and generally not as smooth shifting. Spend the money on other components which you'll still be able to use with the GTE though... fuel mods, suspension, etc.



Krem, just because an engine is from Japan and has fewer miles doesn't mean it's not complete garbage. A lot of those engines were beat to hell and/or saw nothing but city miles... they're also still 20 years old. If you get a JDM you still should plan on having to rebuild it.

[QUOTE=cre;75286]Unless there's a problem with your W58 I'd wait on the R154 swap and swap it in when you get the GTE. It's a much heavier transmission and generally not as smooth shifting. Spend the money on other components which you'll still be able to use with the GTE though... fuel mods, suspension, etc.[QUOTE=cre;75286]

lol no sorry i ment i want to swap in a w58 OR r154. i know the r154 is more robust and all and if i can ill get that. haha i guess after all of this i shouldnt be tooooo cheap

Oh, that's right! I forgot you're swapping from an auto.... in that case, swapping to a R154 won't add any more weight than you've already got in there, so go for it. Might as well only buy one transmission.

ok so the exhaust manifold is off. totally easier than i thought. ok off to krage for that hex head thing so i can take off the head


soooo just so you all know. its a 14mm hex

***EDIT*** 10mm for head bolts.

ok bad news. im trying to get the head bolts off and they wont come loose. in fact its so bad that im starting to strip out the hex!!!!

heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp!!

please

ok i feel like i noob....cause i am. sooooooo tomorrow or friday i shall take the head off anf hopefully send to the machine shop.

When you remove the head bolts you need to clean out any and all oil in the hole and any debris which may have collected there; Failure to do so may prevent the allen bit from entering the opening completely.

If you cannot get a bolt out all the way using constant steady pressure AND the socket is in all the way you can try: Pounding downward on the head of the bolt a few times with a rubber mallet; Use a breaker bar and while you hold it FIRMLY in place have someone tap the end of the handle several timed with a hammer; AND, spray the area thoroughly with a GOOD penetrating oil (WD-40 does not count as a good penetrant).

As for the bolts you've already stripped, go to the hardware store and try to find an allen bit or regular allen wrench that's just a *tiny* bit larger than yours, it'll most likely be an SAE size unless you've got a shop in the area which can order .5mm bits. Take it home and tap it in with a hammer... you know the drill from there. Some people have luck with easy outs; Grinding the head off the bolt usually results in some heavy gouges in the mating area directly under the bolt head and as such getting an accurate torque thereafter is unlikely without having the area machined.... not to mention all the debris you'll have to worry about flushing out of the block. Note: If all you can find that'll fit is a regular L shaped allen wrench you can just cut it off and slip it into a regular socket. ;)

If I think of anything else I'll let you know.


EDIT: Oh, and don't be afraid to use a LOT of penetrant... it's cheap enough. Soak the bolts, wait an hour, soak again, wait another hour, soak again.... repeat a often as you wish, then let it sit for a few hours before going at it again. When you do go at it again make sure the allen is going in all the way before you try to remove the bolt.