There could well be your vibration, that exhaust. I've had a few cars where after fitting a new 'zorst the pipes have been a bit close to the tunnel & touched on acceleration creating a huge noise & vibration through the floor of the car. Now you've mentioned you have that loose it's first job. (at least try and secure it with old bungees or something so it can't hit the body & test it again.)

I missed the vibration issue before... There are several possibilities but the list gets smaller when you say that it is speed and not gear specific.

The first thing I would check is (as MA suggested) the wheels, have them balanced and checked to make sure the wheels aren't warped.

Get the alignment checked too. Even if the car goes straight it doesn't mean everything is aligned well.

Next, check the carrier bearing in the canter of the drive shaft for excessive play... I don't what's acceptable play in this bearing, mine had over 1/2" of play so I completely ditched it and got a one piece drive shaft. The carrier bearing seems to be one of the more common causes of speed related vibration.

If this is fine try to see if there's much play in the output shaft of the transmission (a hard to test this conclusively with the transmission still assembled, but it's worth trying to check).

Then, check for play in all of the suspension and steering related ball joints and check all the other suspension bushings.

ALL IS WELL!

i replaced the center drive shaft and got another differential...

I had an LSD in a non turbo supra wich means someone put it there and didnt know what the hell they were doing. it was missing shims and the u joint had like a inch of play.

I FIXED IT OMG YAY!:gotnos::dance:

Actually, the N/A had a LSD available as an option. All N/A diffs were 4.30:1. As long as that ratio is the same as what you've got, it's a N/A diff.

Glad you found your driveline problem, how's the engine coming?

i flushed all of the coolant out and put dexcool in it becuase it has the same properties at the toyota stuff just missing a few things, and its cheaper... there seems to be no more sludgy stuff in the coolant which means no BHG!

replaced both clutch and brake master cylinders, the clutch exploded in the car and the brake in the engine bay but all is well except for the paint and carpet where the brake fluid got.

all seems to be well when i am speaking to you now... gonna detail it and give it a good cleaning this weekend and see what other problems i behold.

ACTUALLY! none of the cabin lighting is turning on, chekced all the fuses and battery connections... sometimes it used to work and now it jsut does even turn on. the door lights work and the foot well lighting, no ciggarette lighter or dome lights though...

Sounds like wiring, get a wiring diagram for the lights that aren't working and use a DMM or vantage to find the voltage drop from each connection, could be a wire or faulty connection, damn cars are wired like an ant farm.

Do the gauges light up when the headlights are turned on? If not it's quite likely that the dimmer died. As long as there isn't a short you can pull the dimmer and jumper the white wire with the black stripe and the white wire with the green stripe... I recommend using a 7.5A fuse in between the two. If this works, you may either leave it this way (the gauges will stay lit a full) or replace the dimmer.

The Dome light issue is either a bad ground inside the enclosure, a bad Dome fuse or a bad door switch... if you can't turn the Dome on manually either, it's usually the ground inside the dome light assembly.

I had a problem with my interior lights before as well, when I did finally get them fixed my back left tail light kepts burning out, if that happens you're in the same boat as me, as I've been trying to figure out my tail light problem for about a year now ;;

If the bulbs are actually burning out you most likely need to replace the tail lamp housing's seal. If they weren't actually burning out AND the right side was also cutting out at the same time, it would probably be a problem with the tail lamp failure module.