High Idle, exhaust man glowing red
 

:nuts:So just replaced bhg on buddys 88 n/a. It fired right up, but it idles around 2000rpm. Got it to idle around 1000 rpm and noticed the exhaust man glowing red? Checked all the wires and vac lines averything is good?

Check the mechanical and ignition timing... could be very retarded.

I just sent this to another guy a week ago:

Setting timing (both mechanical and ignition) in order:

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=29
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=30
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=19
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=20

When setting timing with the timing light the TSRM shows a SST (Special Service Tool) for jumpering TE1 and E1… just use a piece of wire or a paper clip. ;) You MUST jumper those two connecters when setting the spark advance.

Exactly what CRE stated above, I had fire shooting out the exhaust man today cause of ignition timing being off! just follow those things he sent you to the book and you'll be golden.

Cool thanks for you replies, im gettin a code 51 now so tomorow im going to check out the tps. the car has been sitting for a couple of years

The tps checked out ok. My buddy thinks it is the idle control valve, its supposed to make a clicking sound when you turn off the car but it doesnt?:confused:

When checking for codes the A/C must be OFF and you musn't press the throttle, either of these will set a code 51.

A false A/C signal to the ECU will set the A/C idle-up in the ECU causing an increase in idle when it's not really needed. The A/C idle increase is only a bump of a couple hundred RPM, not 1300.... if you've still got an idle of +2000RPM quit dicking around with the TPS and ISC.

Code 51 has absolutely nothing to do with the ISC... is there some other reason you're worried about that right now? Often they don't make any ticking noise because they need to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned out.

***None of these has anything to do with a glowing manifold.***


I'm getting a bit confused here.... care to clean up your own thread a bit and tell us what you did and didn't manage to fix and why you're looking at some of this new stuff?

ok, my buddy thought it was the isc, book says your supposed to hear a click.

The ac wasnt on and I was not pressing on the gas. The code 51 went away and its not flashing any codes right now. Its still runnin around 2000rpm, just found out the alt is bad, dont think that would cause the high idle.

The only thing I have fixed on it was the hg, and every other gasket that goes with it, I also replaced the knock sensor. Thats it.

This car has been sitting for 4 years and it ran great before the bhg.

There has been a couple of time when I start it up and it idles around 700rpm and the it slowly works its way up to 2000rpm, then it jumps back and forth from 1000 to 2000. the highest it has idled was 2800rpm. If I completely retard the dis it idles around 1400rpm.

You went back and re-timed everything as detailed in the four links I posted? Or are you just "sure it's fine"?




So, the car got a BHG and sat for 4 years then? I sure hope when the HG went that no coolant entered the oil system... otherwise you may have more to worry about than just burnt valves.

it hasnt been timed because its idling at 2000rpm. cant time it when its that high.

Yeah the oil was mixed with the coolant. Its had 2 oil changes to clean it out.

No burnt valves either. No smoke, and this sounds dumb but for idling high it runs really smooth, no vibrations and it doesnt miss fire. And when it does drop down to normal it runs smooth to.

I am completely lost with this car, Ive gone over every hose and electrical connection and everything seems good.

Sigh.... you didn't REALLY read my post then.

I mean that I hope you thoroughly flushed it before the car was stored. If it sat for four years with the crank and bearings, etc. sitting in water contaminated oil then things could go bad real fast... rust does that.

If the manifold's glowing red think about what's happening to the valves...


I've tried... I'm done.

[QUOTE=cre;74578]Sigh.... you didn't REALLY read my post then.

No I have checked that S&%T 3 times now, every thing lines up. The only issue I have is with this http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=19

It says "align the grove of the distributor housing with the protrusion on the drive gear" there is no f%&kin "PROTRUSION" on the drive gear, only the grove on dis housing.

ok so I just went out and moved the dist over one tooth and I think that solved the prob, idles around 700rpm doenst change much movin the dist around, so thats a good sign right? CRE your right, I did miss the dist thing. dont know why mine doesnt have a protrusion but whatever. Thanks CRE :x:

[quote=clarkrc82;74582]Ran into same problem with mine. The distributor for the 87 and I guess 88 7mge has a round circle on the shaft that you line up with the line. That trough me through a loop as well, the sucky part is that the circle is huge and you cant tell if its a tooth off or not as you have figured out now.

Yeah, some distributors/CPSs only have the pin to go by, no other hatch mark, but most people get that. If you're off by a tooth you'll find that to get the timing close to where you want it (10?BTDC) you'll have to rotate the distributor/CPS pretty much as far as the slide on the housing will allow. If this is the case, you're probably off by a tooth. IIRC, properly lined up and zero'd out the timing advance should be close to 0? with the bolt centered in the oval hole.


Clarkrc82, if you have a question about something... ASK. I don't mention these things for the sake of a cheap laugh... and you're welcome. ;)

So I finally timed it today, and set it at 10 btdc it starts jumping up and down from 1000rpm to 2000rpm :confused: It starts doing that around 5 btdc, it jumps more and more as I bring it to 10 btdc. If I set it at 0 btdc it doesnt do that at all. I still need to get an alt though so I dont know if runnin off the battery affects anything. Im not throwing any codes :confused:

I have a question, I pulled out and tested the isc and it checked out ok resistance wise but I couldnt get it to move when i applied voltage to b1 b2 and then ground out s1-s2-s3-s4? when the car is off its supposed to close all the way? Its looks like its all the way open when I took it out.