So upon inspection of my system I notice that I do need to do a complete brake line flush due to the brake fluid looking like a dark brownish color in compared to a clear water color when it's fresh. I have also found a cracked line in my left rear side exposing the braided lines. So I'm just going to order some new Techna Fit performance brake lines all around. I also noticed on changing out my pads that they had some rust on the inside of it where it touches the rotor. This will be the last time I will be able to get my rotors resurfaced so next I'm going with the performance rotors. Eventually I'll be able to save up for a front and rear big brake kits; it's crazy how they cost as much as a high end turbo.

I believe after changing your brake lines and your brake fluid, your cars braking system is gonna feel much better. I hope this helps. The rust on the inside of the rotors (not the surface that touches the pad) is normal. As long as the surface that touches the pad is in good condition everything should be gravy.


Hope it heps :drool:

Thanks, I know you can't see it but the pads in the posting have rust spread lightly across the pad on the side that touches the rotor. That's why I changed them out to some new ones. I ordered my new brake lines still waiting for them to get here. Next time I'm going to upgrade my rotors. By the way does any one know a good website where I can purchase performance calipers? I just want the calipers and not the whole kit. Thanks.

A light surface rust is common in humid climate due to the soft, cast steel from which rotors are made. Especially in humid weather. It wipes off pretty much immediately and is of no concern. In addition to the surface rust some pads have iron and other materials in them which contribute to brown and reddish dust on the brake components. You're likely to see what you describe on any rotor... I don't think you've got anything to worry about there.

Definitely take care of the broken line and you might want to consider upgrading your brake fluid while you're at it. DOT 4 is far superior to the DOT 3 which came in our cars. Air in your system from the broken line is really the most likely culprit for all of the issues you're having with the brake system; changing the fluid is unavoidable since you'll be removing hoses, but it's advisable regardless. As for the rotors and pads, I'd clean them up with some sandpaper and see how everything feels with the fresh fluid and leak taken care of... if that takes care of it then you've got just that much more money to put into other upgrades.

Also, if the calipers didn't just slide off easily then the guides may be pitted or the grease may have emulsified. Clean the old grease off the guides and out of the caliper's holes for them and inspect them for pitting. If they're heavily pitted you'll need to replace them, otherwise just buff them with some 600 or higher grit sandpaper and regrease them liberally with the appropriate type of grease. You really should do this any time you take the caliper off (inspect and regrease) it's easy and cheap insurance.

2 months ago i had to replace ALL front pads calipers and rotors, and after that i lost all break power...
Replaced the "Master Break Cylinder" for 75 dollers,never had a problem again...

if you pump your breaks do you get anything???
do they build up over time??
small o rings in the master break cylinder could go overtime causing it too loose pressure thus having no peddle...
chek it out...

Update, now I have my brakes finished I'm going to go get a brake system flush and install my new performance lines. Upon doing some work over in the engine bay I noticed that my brake booster lines were cracked and had heat damage. So I had replaced the hoses and factory clamps with better ones. It seems like I'm not getting any pressure loss anymore, but still going to continue with the flush and line upgrades just to be on the safe side.