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Diagnosing a problem
This morning, my 87 turbo began running a bit rough - particularly at idle. This is the first sign of any problem I have had with this car. It would also buck a bit while accelerating, and the engine light would come on. But, once up to speed, the light would turn off and it would run smooth. It did this for the forst 20 minutes of my commute whenever I came to a stop or dropped my RPMs.
I had a motorcycle that behaved similarly. I disocvered water in one of the spark plug chambers that caused this issue. A 10 cent pipe cleaner was used to clear the drain hole and all is fine. That was after having a mechanic tell me I needed about $300 to diagnose and fix the issue. So, I have heard Supras have an issue with oil getting to the saprk plugs. I have not opened her up yet, but does this sound like it fits the bill? If not, any other suggestions ? Also, an annoying side is that I get a cracling from behind the radio occasionally. It occurs even if the car is in acc only mode so I do not believe it could be the head gasket or anything truly engine related. The car has run great despite that noise and I assume it to be related to the ac or heating system as my ac is about as cold as a NC summer day. Any thoughts? |
I had the same issue with my Honda Oddysey (not my Supra) and the only fix I found was a fuel system cleaning (which I did myself). The cleaner is about 65.00 and I can't recall the name, but it wasn't off the shelf. The service manager sold it to me from their Honda stock (it's generally a thing that most people wouldnt see). I ran it thru my fuel system and the problem was gone immediately. This stuff was so strong, it recommends you dont run it thru the fuel system more than once per year.
Now. saying that... That was my problem and solution. It may have nothing to do with your car. The guy who sold me the fuel system cleaner explained that the "supermarket" and service station fuel injector cleaners are a waste of money. The real way to clean your fuel system is at a licensed mechanical facility and costs about 150-250 to do correctly. Just a thought to see if it points in the right direction. |
check the plugs since it sounds sorta like misfiring. If plugs check out, check the injectors. also try and get a code on the engine light, that could help a lot.
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Is there a trick to getting the code on the engine light ?
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I assume it has an OBD 1 system. I'd take it down to autozone and see if they have a scanner. I have gone there before with OBDII vehicles and they had a scanner and scanned the check engine light for me free of charge. If they dont have a scanner that will work with OBD-1, then take it to a honest mechanic shop, I say honest because some might want to charge you for checking the codes.
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They all charge 150.00 to read codes where I live.. so I bought the OBII scanner for myself. Havent found an OBI scanner yet. I like owning them as I have 6 vehicles. Saves $$$
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Check the Sticky'd threads in this section on how to check for the CEL codes. You don't need a scanner, just a little piece of metal wire...
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i believe you can just take a little paper clip and stick the ends in T and E1. then turn the key to on and watch the engine light blink.
ooooo...oo... is code 52. knock sensor. you get the idea? just count the number of flashes. |
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