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CyFi6 08-26-2008 06:43 AM

if you see the abs light when you turn the key on you have abs

mnewxv 10-13-2008 08:58 PM

couple more pics. approaching 2 months and still looking clean!

Question: does the turbo have the same size injectors?

If I wanted to turbo this, and went with a much thicker headgasket (2.0mm) would it lower the pressure in the engine enough to bolt on a ct26 with aftermarket header, intercooler, and intake?

me and the car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...v/PICT0657.jpg

interior = spotless, cd and cassette
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...v/PICT0663.jpg

engine bay needs a good wipe down
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...v/PICT0664.jpg

Grandavi 10-13-2008 11:35 PM

Im no expert, but I believe the turbo and non-turbos shared the same injectors. However, I have looked at doing a lot of mods to my 88 and I think you may be better off getting a turbo 1jdmze (is that correct name?) to drop in if your gonna go that route. Will give you time to prepare the engine prior to dropping it in. There will be a lot of little issues (from what I read in the forums), but its not too daunting of a task.

Again, I am just going from my little knowledge, but pretty sure if you do a search for "engine swap" on the forums you will find so much info your brain will dance the dance of a 1000 knives... (w/e that means...)

Personally, I would buy a turbo Supra before I actually swapped one.. but thats just me doing math...

Your car looks good as is and probably performs just fine for a daily driver.

mnewxv 10-14-2008 12:14 AM

thanks for the tips. did you mean the 1jz swap? If so, thats a bit out the price range i would want, this car would be strictly budget, as in full exhaust and intake + head gasket and a used full stock turbo set up plus a decent intercooler to keep engine temps nice and get a few more ponies. and im fairly confident I could do the turbo myself with the help of the TSRM. the 1jz appears at LEAST $1k plus shipping. i can hopefully get all the turbo parts for $200 used, intake $150, exhaust will be more but i would be doing it if i went 1jz anyways. :x: i will read more and rethink my options though.

mnewxv 10-14-2008 02:46 AM

another question. I really dont want to dish out $1000 when my head gasket blows, and when I asked if I can just torque the stock headbolts to 75ft/lbs if itll be fine they said no, the bolts stretched. what about using the ARP bolts and torquing those to 75ft/lbs? I really would like to do this ahead of time without removing the head and leaving the stock head gasket, if at all possible.

OkieRA29 10-14-2008 03:44 AM

Most of that 1000$ is in labor. If you can do it yourself, it is more like 500$ or so (150$ HG, 200$ for head work, 100 or so for bolts) I think everybody here said it just fine. If the head ain't broke, don't worry about it. Save up and buy the parts as you can. That way, when it blows, you will be prepared. I don't think that new bolts will get you that much extra time. Since the engine already has 110K + miles on it what will new head bolts get you? 25-50K??? Save up, get some ARP bolts and a quality head gasket. Continue saving and when it blows look at what mods you can afford. Run it till it dies, but don't abuse it. You should get at least a couple of years if not more before she blows. Save your pennies and maybe you can afford a 1JZ when she does. Heck, I just got my running today, so you are ahead of me!!!!


Oh, I forgot to add, I have ABS and mine is an 87.

mnewxv 10-14-2008 11:31 AM

thanks thats a good post. Only reason Id consider trying new ARP bolts is because this engine only has 102k, but maybe making it to 200k even then would be wishful thinking. And I found out it does have ABS, would have been pissed if it didnt. :stupid:

ddmcse 10-14-2008 03:25 PM

5th gear is 0.783

MK3 TSRM On-Line

walker 10-16-2008 10:36 PM

congratultions that was a great deal i wouldn?t touch it if i was you,wait till it blows you?ll be lucky if doesn?t.

Busted Knuckles 10-18-2008 10:05 AM

BTW, you have ABS. On the pic of the engine bay, in the upper left side, to the left of the charcoal canister and in front of the wiper motor is your ABS module. Now, if it is working or not is the question. If the ABS light doesn't come on when you first start the car in it's standard self-test, it may not be functioning. Or the dash bulb is blown. More testing required. (sigh). Also, I bought an '86.5 parts car that did not have ABS, so I believe it was an option.


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