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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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yea def plays too much. Why is the shaft in two pieces anyways?
Which is a better idea, replace the bearing or just get a new complete shaft? Any ideas on the brakes?
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Zach |
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#2 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Brakes: toyota oem rebuild kits for the front and back via your dealership.
Drivetrain: Niether one of those are inexpensive to replace dude. Carrier bearings are priced sky high. A drive shaft could cost you a grand. U-joints. I like to use spicer, but I haven't changed mine out yet either. The good news is that with ramps and jack stands you can do all of the work yourself. Easily within a weekend. I'm not totally sure what you have but you sound like this could be it and it just happens in autos such as vans and 3/4 ton trucks from the drive train hauling that weight. In your case it's probably there from years of negligence. If I had to venture a guess. I would say the carrier bearing is close to $250/$300. And the other 2 u joints are going to run anywhere from $75 / $125. If you have never ''wrestled'' u-joints before. You had better study up. They can be a real pita unless someone knows the trick. I have long since forgotten it, without some hands on. I hope this helps, man. Last edited by supramacist; 05-21-2008 at 06:51 AM. |
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#3 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
Posts: 1,705
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I pulled my drivshaft out and took it to the driveline shop. They cut the center bearing support bracket and replaced the bearing, then welded it back up. Replaced all 3 u-joints, and then balanced the whole thing. And I'm in Calif where everything is expensive.
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. |
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#4 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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I could never get it done for that rate here.
It's not a bad gig except for those pesky u-joints. |
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#5 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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cool thanks guys. I guess im going to start calling around for some prices. cause if its that challenging ill rip it out and take it to someone like mr. nickleye did. ive never dealt with shaft problems
Prices down here I have noticed are much better than most places. SC is really cheap state, HAHA I havent looked lately but we had the lowest tax, and minimum wage in the country last I saw like a year ago.
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Zach |
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#6 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
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SOOO my car's been parked for a few days and we have done extensive troubleshooting on the brakes. After playing around for a bit, bleeding, pumping brakes, opening lines etc. etc. The brakes pretty much locked up.
After more troubleshooting, we opened up the caliper bleeder valve. Nothing but like 2 drops came out and did not relieve pressure on the pads. Well its getting start of summer heat here in SC and its hot as hell. Well our conclusion is calipers 21 years old and the piston seals have had enough. Calipers kept binding. Orderd some new calipers, but still waiting on one this should solve the brake issue.( I had to use a hellof alot of force with a c-clamp just to get the pistons to return back to get old calipers off. At a certain point the pressure finally forced em in, huge slush noise and calipers went all the way back. ) But this would be a good idea if your working on your brakes. Two remand calipers 43 bucks with 50.00 core charge. Also check you lines for excessive twisting or cracking. This was the case for passenger side for me. PS Do not attempt to bleed your brakes yourself Especially if you have ABS. It is very hard and you could let even more air into system.( Take it to a professional, trapped air in the ABS you would not even know, and very dangerous. ) Or you can choose to do it yourself but have fun. Grab yourself 2 giant bottles of brake fluid, pack of cigs, and case of beer. Then you can have fun watching paint dry as you do a gravity bleed from the caliper bleeder valve.
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Zach |
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#7 |
12psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, TX
Posts: 308
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Man do like I did and buy a one peice one they are so much easier to put in and take out. Unless you dont have a turbo then you may have a hard time finding one for a W58 and not the R154 like most of them are made for. As for your brakes dragging I would take a look at how everything is set on the rotors themselves. See if when the wheels are in the air if the rotors turn smooth or if they make the grinding noise. You may also need to check your wheel bearings, if they have play in them then it may be grinding when you have weight on them. Mine were like that and it sucks doing them as well but well worht the effort.
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1987 supra NA 5 speed 1JZGTE swap Tokico Illumina 2 and Eibach springs Tokico pillow blocks Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar HKS super dragger cat-back exhaust plus test pipe Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller HKS type 1 turbo timer Supra sport solid steel drive shaft Walboro 255 fuel pump JZA70 Front end mod 18" Volk Racing AV3 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear |
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