My friend the Mechanic said:
 

go ahead and clean your AFM ...I did and now my car sits.Touchy little absolute,hard to find piece of the car!!!
so you want to know how I cleaned it? Simple I thought,I took it off and spayed it with throttle body cleaner..I mean I spayed the shit out it.(it was dirty)put it back on and not good.all codes lead to this 24 and 31.My buddy did suggest brake clean.but thought the other would be fine.Perhaps I miss understood him and I was only supposed to clean the housing.I read on here that a guy is using a ls400 with the ls AFM aswell without issue.Since I was planning full upgrades anyway I will probably do the same.Any advice.Its days like this that I do miss my Malibu lol

first advice never clean your afm electronics with carb cleaner again.

As for the Sc400 afm. I have one I just bought and its the housing that you use, so that means you take your old electronic from the stock afm and reuse it with the "new" SC400 afm.


Plus don't use the SC400 AFM unless you have 550s or enough fuel to match the new air flow.

whoa BUDDY!!!
 

"one of these cars"...Go back to my chevy,first post here looking for advice and I meet a goof !So you where born with all knowledge,You didn't need to ask anyone anything ever!wow smart guy.Simple mitake is all.I am not a kid who doesn't know shit alright.I have been wrenching everything I've ever driven for 30 years.
I love this little car I have now.And I will keep it in pristine condition as I did with my Malibu which is the handle I choose because i sold the car to buy the Supra.two totally different rides.But hey that car I could rebuild with my eyes closed.
Don't be so ugly its just a car

That's uncalled for. Give the guy some credit, he at least got information from someone who he thought knew what he was talking about.


Now, Mr. Sold my Malibu,

In the world of EFI there are several different systems used for measuring airflow: VAF, KVAF, MAF and MAP/IAT (aka Speed Density).

VAF = Vane Air Flow meters use a flap placed in the airflow. Incoming air pushes the flap out of the way and in doing so moves a variable resistance wiper, thus scaling the voltage returned to the ECU. The non-turbo MKIII uses this system. It's the most restrictive system out there, not very accurate, but also one of the harder ones to f@#% up.

KVAF = Karmen Vortex Air Flow meters use a honeycomb shaped grill to form the airflow into a specific pattern. This patterned airflow is then read by an array of optics. The data about the amount of air is then returned to the ECU as a pulsed signal. This is probably the easiest system out there to screw up in a MAJOR way. Solvents can ruin the lenses the optical sensor looks through or they may enter the electronics housing and destroy the optical element itself. In SOME cases people have managed to dissect, clean and rebuild the damaged housing... but usually, once it's shot you're going to have a much easier time shopping for a used replacement.

MAF = Mass Air Flow sensors (most commonly GM's hot wire type) are robust, fairly accurate (not as accurate as the KVAF, but much more than the VAF) and less restrictive than either of the previous systems. They are susceptible to damage from solvents or oils (as are the KVAF).

MAP/IAT (Speed/Density) = Manifold Air Pressure and Intake Air Temp are measured with two separate sensors. Manifold pressure is measured via nothing more than a vacuum source supplied by the manifold and the temperature sensor is the ONLY obstruction in the intake path. This system is as unrestrictive as you get and arguably more robust than all three of the aforementioned systems.

There are electronics out there which will allow you to convert from one system to the next. These setups are not cheap, but once in place replacing the components of some is far less expensive than others (KVAF is probably the most expensive to replace).

Unfortunately, you learned about the frailties of the KVAF the hard way. In the future you may want to seek another opinion before using solvents on sensors.

Best of luck with the car!


Oh, and by the way, you may hear of the MKIII's meter referred to as the AFM. This is a generic term used for all of the different meters used by Toyota. It simply means "Air Flow Meter" but is nondescript and provides no information as to what type of meter you're referring to. As such it doesn't hurt to mention what type of meter or whether it's on a turbo or nonturbo model.

getting some where now
 

ok the housing is called ? and the electronic box screwed into is called KVAF .So i can change the electronics and be ok ? If thats the case my next problem is finding the electronics.
My original post was :there is a post her stating a Lexus 400 housing and electronics will work with the supra.I know it needs the 550 injectors probably more fuel delivery.I have a 3 inch exhaust with the divorced downpipe and a blitz SBC my spare ct26 is going in for a new trim.So I will be looking to due these upgrades with the lexus parts anyway.My question is and I should have just left it too that when I first posted....DOES the fucking box and the electronics from the lexus work on the MK3 turbo 89 or due I still need to find a stock toyota electronic KVAF- if thats what it is called.
I guarantee I am not the only person who has fucked up a part by cleaning it.So I mentioned it in a humbling manner to perhaps help some other simple fuck out there .Not to recieve condemnation for it .So please only answer the direct mechanical question with out personal statements.After all thats why we are here.My car is not my life I HAVE A LIFE.
to fuck face let me know when your in Vancouver

The electronics in the Lexus meter do not work in the Supra. The stock electronics of the turbo Supra will bolt into the larger housing of the Leaxus air flow meter. You still need good electronics.

At this point you might as well try pulling the electronics out of the meter and VERY carefully cleaning them with brake cleaner. Don't use too much as it eats seals and plastics. There exists the possibility that the oils usually left behind by carb cleaner have just fogged the outside of the optical sensor. I'd spray it on cotton swabs and slowly clean it out by hand.

Please try to break your posts up into paragraphs.

Supramacist is (as his screen name suggests) thoroughly bull headed about some things... mainly anyone who wasn't born knowing everything about the Supra. I think he should chill out though... it's counter productive and annoying as hell. (HINT)

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ke-offers.html


his selling his afm for 75 bucks. try that. if not try your luck at the junk yard.

good luck on getting it back up and running though.

Fixed It!!!
 

I hope I'm not getting ahead of myself but it seems just fine.
I think it was CRE who said I may aswell go ahead and take it apart.I don't know if he meant take the top off of it but I did and the carefull part is not stabbing yourself with the very sharp german peeling knife.
But thats what I did
Now...looking inside that little box had me a little intimidated ! So I gave up
I mean I blew through the air openings ,it sat on my desk for a day or so.and I thought "what the hell glue this thing back together and try it maybe it dried out.
As you know it is cold in Vancouver right now and maybe sitting with the top off might have done somegthing EH ? (canadian)
I only had JB weld in the house so I aint ever taking it apart again lol
Runs fine Although I forgot to tighten a clamp by my HKS BOV and at first I thought shit.but after tightening it its all good (I hope)


Thanks again for all your suggestions and advice

Next time you spray electrical compenants be sure to get stuff that is made for that and doesnt leave residue...


Sure break cleaner works on alot of things but if say im cleaning my throttle body i get throttle body cleaner.... Or if im cleaning out my engine bay and need to clean electrical connections i dont spray it with Gunks degreaser.... i get the electrical cleaner ...

right
 

really ..dam I still have half a can of TB cleaner.
pretty sure I figured that one out by my self.

But if you had you wouldnt of sprayed sensitive electronics with TB cleaner....

Eh?
 

I don't think you get me .I have a sense of humor and I can laugh at my own mistakes.little friendly sarcassism just keeps the blood flowing.Anywaysome else has come up
My car was fine till I drove it in the rain.and it started acting up again.I have a K/N air filter.Now can water pass threw if it needs oiled and cause the AFM to misbehave or should I simply move out of this rain forest hell.

Some one on here has a theory that the oils from the K/n are gumming up the AFM .not a bad theory really.plus is the K/N a superior upgrade over stock air filter.I have noticed some pics of cars putting out good power with the stock AF

Get a dry flow filter... like AEM or even one of HKS new dry flow ones...

The oils will jack up the AFM also K&N does not filter very well

Apexi.... you won't find any other air filter under my hood...


...unless you do. But then it's usually only temporary... like I took the Apexi off for cleaning.


The main concern with K&N is people have found thin film on MAF sensors which they believe was from the filter... if this is the case then the MKIII crowd's paranoia about them fogging the KVAFM's optics are well based. I really don't imagine any such "ingested" oil would be flowing in a volume sufficient to fog the optics or ruin a MAF unless you're doing an insane amount of driving every day and at a high throttle.

The reason I stand by my Apexi are some of the tests I've seen. No, you can't trust everything you see online, but what I've read is pretty consistent that the Apexi offer the best flow per filtering ability.

I did a WHOLE lot of research on air filters 2 yrs ago. My conclusion is:

I was told buy a Ford warranty person that if you use a K&N (or similar oiled filter, the AFM wwarranty will be voided.

Also, that every NAME brand filter performed almost identical to each other, air flow, and filtering properties.

So, it really does NOT matter what you use, as long as it is NOT some cheap ass NO NAME filter.

WIX, Purolator, Fram, K&N, Hastings,Napa....NAME BRANDS !!!!
etc.

You'll get improvement from just the addition of a fresh filter.

I tried the k&n. It's good but I don't think it's much better than anything else that is name brand.

My old Nissan truck loved those fresh fram filters. Alot.

While I agree that, in general, most air filters do permit similar air flow levels. I completely disagree with the statement that their filtering properties are "almost identical".

Most high performance filters let a LOT more crap through than the less expensive ones.

I would love to see a test showing that FRAM and Wix air filters filter as well as Apexi, K&N, HKS and especially Blitz's stainless steel filter. Last time I asked for this from someone making the same claims they replied with: "Oh, sorry I was thinking of oil filters"... Which don't perform the same from one to the next either.

Also lets keep in mind that all of these various media have VERY different properties the longer they're in service. Filters using oiled media or graduated density media start out letting tons of crap though, but do a MUCH better job catching smaller particulates than fiber media will at any point in it's serviceable life span. Paper filters do a great job for MOST of their VERY SHORT life span.

What it comes down to is not only the passable surface area but the opening size. You have two perforated screens, both have a 50% open surface area... one has holes .1" in diameter, the other .75" in diameter. They both block 50% of oncoming air, but only one's going to stop a bucket full of gravel.



Now, with all this in mind, happy shopping.

My brother looked at mine not long ago told me the same thing"just geta new one"

Starting to think
 

now I can't figure this but :
we have a afm (by code 24-31) giving me intermitant trouble.somrtimes fine then not so good at idle.OK at highway speeds

incorrectly clean it (lets not go again)then just horrible.
pull it apart seal it up and good that day,next day start-up fine then 10 minutes later ,up to temperature and back to the way it was before I touched it.
basically I know I need anew one at this point.
I checked into the maf-pro route ..ya not quite ready for the big time just yet.
I think I will go with the lexus upgrade ..MAF ,550 low impedience injectors and pump.
The thing is guys is:Can some one tell me why the AFM in the lexus won't work because some people say it does.
If its job is to read and tranmitt info to the tccs how can the tccs eff it up if I have the rest covered (550s and higher volume fuel pump)

The only part of the Lexus AFM that works in the MKIII is swapping housings (haven't I already covered this?). The electronics from the two are different, they provide different frequency scaling per measured airflow. PERIOD.

You're intermittent codes are probably the result of the attempted cleaning or due to the solvents attacking the circuit. Check the wire harness for shorts or too much resistance from the KVAF's harness connector and the TCCS' harness connector. Specifically you should look at E2 and VC. Test the resistance across THA and E2 as per the TSRM. I'm betting on a break in VC, either in the box or the harness.

If you do end up replacing the electronics you wanna send me the old box? I'm interested in dissecting one in person... actually, I'd love to try to rebuild one. ;)

I just wanted to post an apology to you guys that I have offended with my retardery.

It was un-productive and alienating and after speaking to some friends and some members. I have seen the error of my ways.

I'm not going to offer excuses, cause who gives a rats, right?

I'm just going to say I'm sorry and hope that you guys can see past my disgressions and welcome me back into the fold.

So to you malibu and cre and mrnickleye and everyone else that had the displeasure of reading my crap.

I apologize.

Props for stepping up and clearing the air. We all have bad days... no harm here.

Well its good you guys are here.I mean the other day I told my girlfriend my "blow-off valve isn't working," Well she seamed concerned and I thought she understood ...But when she suggested Viagra I figured I'm better off with you guys. And thank you

targa ?
 

like some 80s GMs t roof they couldn't take too much power before twisting and requirering frame connectors.
My question is :does the targa succomb to the same weakness.Or what is its limits?
I don't think I'm heading for insane power with this car but curious.
Anyone know

okay, I'm gonna say this once and only once... the first person to reply to this post with anything about the 7M giving better head or whatnot will find himself the sole subject of my mockery for a full week!





The MKIII is pretty robust, there's always more you can do but as long as everything's been tightened up (see: subframe) it's been known to handle well over 400RWHP. The targa is actually quite still as long as the top stays on.... unlike most gents in certain clubs. ;)

blitz boost controller
 

The guy I bought the car from doesn't even know how to use it!

So I have been playing with it and its fun.But I really don't have a clue

Does anyone have one of these?

I am making a trip over the river next week to see a guy a supra guy and find out many answer http://www.bicperformance.com/index.htms including how much to install maft pro.

But for know I like to test your guys infinite wisdom.and in a year i will be answering some questions.

Does anyone have one of what?

Top of my post Blitze boost controller
 

Blittz dual selonoid SBC boost controller

Ah, gotcha. Sorry, I didn't see that mentioned previously.

I know how boost controllers work and can usually set them up pretty quick, but that model's unknown to me.

What's the present setting on the controller? The BOV isn't venting at all or you just don't hear it? Is the BOV routed to the intake or open to atmosphere?


EDIT: Well, if you're looking to learn here's a guide from our distant cousins the 3000GT crowd (*me* ducks the heavy objects now poised to be thrown in my direction). This looks like it covers things fairly in depth, although cut back on the boost settings until you have a feel for what the turbo has to offer before it chokes.

SwissCars / Blitz DSBC Installation

EDIT 2: Forgot to mention that you should also check that the SBC's vacuum line is connected and that there are no leaks.


here's the manual:
http://www.blitz-performance.com/inc...Spec%20S&R.pdf

thanx
 

that is my controller at the link. I will print off the manual for it.

I got a new AFM well used but wow what a difference.The car has never run this good.

Plus the guy who sold it to me will be helpfull in the future.

Thank you CRE

I posted in a thread about the Lex AFM. It apparently does use the same electronics as the 7M-GTE... I have no idea why everyone insists it doesn't....

Seriously, I don't know who's right now and as such I'm just going to stay away from that topic hence forth.

probably safest
 

On another note.
heres one:when I start my car often it feels like it is starting rich.It stumbles and sounds shitty for maybe a minute.I am checking the timing tomoorow. (I was too busy today replacing the deck some idiot tried stealing and only succeeded in completely bastardizing it).But when I was going through the trouble with the afm I got a code about the starter.code 43.Or could this also be the TPS requirering adjustment.It runs fine after it catches itself though.
Feel free to chime in supramacist apart from the past You may have some benificial ,contribital knowledge.

Don't start adjusting that tps unless you have a 51...., or you'll throw a 51 as well. I just went through all of that. I mean the idle screw and the dashpot to be more specific.:x:

This may help you. maybe. maybe not.

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-question.html

I downloaded the manual and keep it in the glovebox.I have it set at 5 gain and # 1 at 20% it runs nice man.I am interested in shimming the waste gate is this a simple job?or in hours with corect tools

Shimming only takes a few minutes... getting it just where you want it is another thing. Although with the Blitz you shouldn't have any need to shim the wastegate... so, what's up?

your right
 

after posting I did wonder about that.I need to understand a little more about this area
I have a spare ct26 on the kitchen table right now and had to laugh because the owner of it had the washers on the nut side.I couldn't see how this gained anything.But I had the chance to learn alittle more.
I may switch actuators tomorrow as i have what seems like some exhaust coming out of my divorced pipe at idle.I don't know if they are prone to failure or not.I suppose the spring mechanism could tire.

It should be closed at idle correct.