Running Hot
 

Is your heater working? If not you might be hearing the noise coming from air trapped in the heater core? :(

After replacing my water pump, I couldn't get the heater working, so I took the car out on the street put it in reverse and hit the brakes hard. Did this maybe four times and heat started flowing in. :dance:

the heat is working just fine....i have not had to replace the heater, and i have actually used it to help cool down the car when it has overheated in the past.

Is it boiling or bubbling you hear?
Do you hear a water fall type noise?
Is your low coolant or bird cage light coming on through hard corners?

If any of this doesn't sound foreighn to you.

You may just need to burp the beast and top it off.

Elevate the nose of the car as high as you can. Pull the rad cap off and watch for bubbles.

This process takes a while. Keep topping it off and keep watching for bubbles.

Crank the engine over a few times but don't start it. This will circulate the bubble inside the coolant system if you have one.

Eventually the bubbles will stop. Top it off 1 last time. And repeat every now and again.

That's if these are also your symptoms.

Hope this helps.

It sounds like bubbles, but it's rapid....like when you boil water on the stove over really high heat. I've seen it before (before I replaced the water pump), and it was bubbling and rocking back and forth....kinda odd, lol.

As far as the "birdcage" light, (add engine coolant) it came on about a year ago, and I bought more coolant, but my mechanic said that it was full, and simply unplugged the sensor. He said that the sensors sometimes go out, and will tell you that you need to add stuff when you really don't.

plug that sensor back in lol

Anyways it doesnt measure the amount of coolant in your system just the amount of coolant in the overflow tank.

So when ur Raditor pulls collant out of the overflow due to a leak somewhere it gets low and thowrs the birdcage at you

When i had a blown head gasket my engine would do this. Coolant wouldnt flow properly through the engine, it would just sit in the bottom of it and boil

same problem here
 

i have the same problem with mine when i drive no problem only when i shut it down i heard bubbling when i poped the hood noticed overflow boiling,head gasket

I had the same problem, but I did the following and it went away:

- Check the headgasket and make sure its ok. Running with a hot engine will increase your chance of blowing the headgasket.

- "burp" the system and top it off just how others have described.

- Look for any pinched or damaged hoses. If there's pressure leaking it won't allow the coolant to flow efficiently. If a hose is pinched it can cause the pressure to rise and your cap might not be able to hold it, and you'll lose coolant.

- get a new radiator cap from Toyota. Aftermarket caps usually fall between "accepted" ranges which sometimes aren't so acceptable, especially with Japan using the metric system and the US still living in the dark ages when making measurements. Once I got a new cap from Toyota my coolant loss stopped (I was afraid it was the headgasket!).

- you might not want to do this if you just replaced the fan clutch, but electric fans cool much more efficiently than fan clutches, especially during hot weather. They take some load off your engine as well. You don't have a turbo, so a $130 electric fan will do just fine, and your engine will thank you for it.

Hope this helps.

I forgot, it boils after you turn off the car because there's no more air flowing onto the engine nor is there coolant flow, so the coolant (and engine as well) heats up. A minute after turning the car off, put the key in the open position (but don't start the engine) and you'll see that the temp gauge will have gone up. Not a good thing. Your coolant should never boil.

I've had this problem with both of my turbo Supras. I found a radiator shop that built me a couple of 3 row radiators. They helped, but the cars still run hot in the Phoenix summers. I changed the fan in the 1990 to a direct-drive stainless steel flex fan, and that helped, but it's a bit noisy.

In the summer, at ~110+ deg., both cars get up to ~220-230, on accurate gages, and the faster I drive the hotter they get. I run 50% antifreeze to keep the boiling point high. Both cars have good head gaskets.

I am convinced that Toyota screwed up and should have provided for a lot more airflow thru the rad.

^You should ask mrnickeleye about keeping your turbos cool. He lives in the desert as well and made some modifications to his N/A to keep it running cool, and they might help your turbos. Only I can't remember exactly what he did, but it had to do with cutting something out to increase the hot air flowing out.

The rubber seal that runs along the back of the engine bay above the firewall.... I know he removed that. it helps some heat escape through there.

Also make sure ur radiator cap is in good condition

Head Gasket
 

Hey, my car finally spilled coolant everywhere when I drove it.....and I got the hydrocarbon test done. It was indeed the head gasket, though we are unsure of the severity of the problem.

My mechanic has said that this is a very costly repair, and he is urging me to get a whole new motor....what would you all recommend?

Please help me save my baby!!!!!:help::help:

You could buy a new engine, but it wouldn't be smart to buy one and not do a rebuild, because that engine might have a bhg as well. Either way you are going to have to tear down a engine to see whats wrong if anything.

I would suggest you get the crank checked to see if it is withing tolerance of the TSRM, if it clears then you can do a rebuild on the engine you have now and keep your engine.

Do an ac delete and get rid of the condensor blocking the radiator.

SC: Is this the same mechanic that unplugged your coolant sensor??
If it is. Find a new one or start gearing up to get dirty. Because if this guy didn't know about the sensor. You don't want him near the internals.
This is your car not a guinnea pig.

a new engine is going to be just as costly, if not more, and probably will blow a head gasket within a short time if its on the original gasket

>"Do an ac delete and get rid of the condensor blocking the radiator."<

Except that I live near Phoenix, and the days may not get below 100+ until October----.

rebuild what you have use a stronger gasket and try some water wetter it works really good for about 3months my dad uses it in his drag car dropped his operating temp from 220 to 180-200

Exactly!!!
The fact that your mechanic did this leaves little room for doubting the fact that he is indeed a moron.

Well as for a new motor you could get a 40k and drop it in but might as well do the head gasket when it is out and then drop it in. Other than that you could just upgrade like I did and get rid of the head gasket issues all together. But seeing as your having a mechanic do your work then I would say a upgrade would be out of the question seeing as the labor itself would kill you. But as for motors you can get a 40k 7mgte for like 700 bucks so I dont see how that is a ton more money. Plus look around you there might be a person from here that would be willing to help you do your HG and save you some money.

>"Other than that you could just upgrade like I did and get rid of the head gasket issues all together."<

How is it different?

It depends on the engine you upgrade to.

For instance a 2jzge. Is 215/ 220hp And has zero hg issues.

I'm not sure even with ARP studs and an HKS stopper mhg solves the issue.
Only time will tell.

And ya. If you aren't your cars mechanic. It'll cost a buttload to have done.

Even if you get a 700$ 7m series engine of higher caliber. It's still not smart to try and plug and play.
Simply put. It's a gamble.

What I was looking for is how Toyota solved the BHG problem--e.g., more head bolts, "O"-ringed heads/block, just higher bolt torque, etc.

They corrected the issues with the 7m series in the 2j series.

OK, but HOW? Anyone know just what they did?

I Don't have absolutes so I don't want to tell you something that isn't entirely true.

I have'nt researched the 2j series that deeply for anything other than how to put it into my mkIII.