Auto Trans Oil Change Made Easy

[mrnickleye]

Get 3 qts of Dextron III ATF (or synthetic if you choose).

Have an old towel handy for drips, etc.

Have a trans funnel ready. (make sure it will fit the dipstick tube)

Have a drain pan handy to put old oil into.

Jack car up a bit on drivers side, use a jackstand for safety. Or, drive up on ramps. Or, park car with driver's side wheels up on curb to get that side high enough for you to slide under.

Slide the drain pan under the car, then you slide under car and remove tranny drain plug with 14mm wrench or socket/ratchet.

About 3 qts will come out. Clean the drain plug with rag, and wrap threads a couple of turns with teflon tape (get at any parts or hardware store for $1 a roll).

Re-install plug.

Lower car back down.

Add 2 qts of new oil via funnel. Don't over fill.

Start engine, shift thru the gears once with foot brake on, then check level as usual in 'park' position. Top up as needed.

You have now 'Diluted' your oil with new oil. Do this every month for 3 months, then every 3-6 months, and you will always have clean, nearly new oil. The tranny will last much longer now.

[mrnickleye]

Originally Posted by suprra_girl

and dont forget to change your trans filter

This is a good thing to do if you don't know when the last time it was done. Should be done about every 60k miles.

The filter is a fine metal screen.

My next post tells you how to do it.

I must say that the trans is very tough, tougher than many other car brands.

When I was doing filter changes (about 100 or so) at the dealer back in the 80's, I noticed that there just wasn't a bunch of crap on the pan bottom (like American cars), and the screens were very clean.

So take care of this, and the trans should last a VERY long time.

(Unless you are doing lots of burnouts)

[mrnickleye]

If the oil has never been changed, or you don't know for sure (red looking oil), I don't recommend the full flush service that a shop would perform.

If the oil is very very dark, and smells bad, it likely has over 80k miles on it, or has some clutches going bad (slipping)which killed it.

Cleaning out the trans with a machine may very well cause it to need an overhaul real quick.


I suggest the following method, which is less of a tranny killer for the high mileage, burnt oil ones.
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Just buy a trans filter kit from any parts store ($20-30).
Get a can of brake spray cleaner, a roll of teflon tape, a wire wheel (for drill motor), wire toothbrush, and a tube of silicone gasket sealer/maker, and 3-4 qts of Dextron III.

Drain the oil from the trans pan (remove the plug, save the gasket), then remove the pan, gasket, and then the filter.

NOTE: If there is a bunch of metal particles on the magnet (on bottom of pan), and/or LOTS of debri/muddy stuff on the bottom of the pan....plan/start saving $$$ up for a rebuild coming soon. A finger 'smearing' amount is OK/normal.
...........................

Install new filter, clean off old gasket from pan with drill motor and wire wheel (or bench grinder with wire wheel on it), and then trans casing (with wire toothbrush if needed, and rag).

Brake spray cleaner works good for the 'final' cleaning of oil and stuff off all the parts, and bolts.

From experience, I strongly suggest applying a "very thin" (but complete) layer of silicone adhesive to both sides of the new gasket, or to pan, then gasket.

Lay gasket on pan, matching up the holes, then install pan onto the trans case. Install all the bolts finger tight. Then use the ratchet and lightly tighten them in a pattern that skips every-other-bolt. This will 'draw' the pan evenly to the case.

I always place the socket extension between my pointer and middle fingers, so as to not over tighten the bolts.

Make 3-4 passes (like torqueing a headgasket) to draw them down firmly, but not real tight.

**Remember, you have a soft gasket between the metal parts, and you don't want to over-tighten it, and squeeze it out much.

Now wrap teflon tape (stops it from tiny leak) around the threads of the drain plug, 2-3 x. Install plug and tighten very firmly.

Add 2 qts of trans fluid, then start the engine and let idle in 'park'.

Check the level, then shift into reverse, then drive, then back to park. Top up the fluid level. Done.

I recommend that, in a month or 2, drain the fluid (from the plug), and top back up. This will eventually change out all the fluid over a years time.

This method will be the least amount of harm you could do to the trans, and yet give you new oil.

After that, its up to you. Now I change out 2.5 qts every 6 months. It always stays red, and I don't have any shifting troubles.

[IHateHacks]

Hey just wanted to support Mr. Nickleye's write up here.

Torque specs:

Trans Oil strainer bolts: 7ft/lbs

Trans oil pan to trans bolts: 65 in/lbs Yes people thats inch pounds very sensitive torque value there. Just like cam cover bolts (22 in/lbs by the way).

Trans oil pan drain plug: 15ft/lbs

And Mr. Nickleye seems a lil anal about his tranny fluid there

[mrnickleye]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

And Mr. Nickleye seems a lil anal about his tranny fluid there

That's because I have a saying, and its worked for me, and a whole bunch of friends and customers for many years:

"Let the oil take the wear, not the metal parts".

And the way to do that is to change all the fluids on a regular schedule.