I wasn't sure if you 'say' bolts but really meant studs with nuts. I was not offered a choice so I didn't know I had one. At this point I would prefer bolts. So far these studs and nuts are a real pain. I need to look at some other threads for some ideas on the install.

My guess is the advantage to stud/nut combo is better and more consistant torque values. It will be worth it if I don't ever have another BHG.

Once I figure out this obsticle I will explain later.

Hey Bill UK...or anybody whose done it...I have ARP studs. I thought a good idea would be to install studs first then gently lower the head on. Turns out this doesn't work as the heater union hits the firewall lip. I don't think I can remove the union then fit it back on later as the big 32mm socket wont fit. Now the dilema is can I install these studs after I seat the head...not much room to hand tighten the studs well. How did you do it???

Fit the cylinder head onto the dowel pins in the block. Then take the washers and drop them over the head bolt holes. Next take the allen head wrench that came with your ARP stud kit and thread the studs into the block with the allen head wrench, DO NOT TORQUE THE STUDS WITH THE ALLEN WRENCH. The allen wrench is ONLY to install the studs, not to torque them. Then take the nuts and carefully thread them on. Don't forget to liberally coat all threads with ARP moly lube. Use 5 separate passes to work up to your final torque value. Make sure all head bolt threads in the cylinder block are spotless, any dirt, debris or liquid will throw torque values off significantly.

That sounds swell IF my studs had any hex or way to get an allen or any other kind of wrench on them. They don't. They are just studs...threaded on both ends just like your factory exhaust manifold studs, et al.

I'll keep ya'al posted if (when) I figure something out.

MY BAD...There is a 5mm allen hex on one side. I was wanting to install upside down as the thread depth seemed to match the original bolts that way. Maybe the ARP studs are slightly different to accommodate the thicker MLS gasket?
I hope so. If not I wont get high enough torque. I better trust ARP until proven otherwise. Thanks for your help hack. It was getting late last night and I needed a sanity check and some sleep.

No problem with the torgue and thread depth concern I had. 80 ft-lb. Moving on.

No problem :)

Got it all back together. Test drove and runs good.

But...there is this little vacuum line connector out the bottom of the pipe that connects the turbo inlet to the airflow meter pipe. I don't remember what it does or is, and can't figure out what to connect it to.
This 3 inch diameter pipe/tube/hose has 3 hoses coming out the top to the air intake chamber side, and the one mystery vacuum connector out the bottom.

Any ideas?

It goes to the power steering pump. The hose is only like 5 inches long. It turns the idle up when using the power steering while idleing.

Thanks. I figued that out after looking around and finding the un-attached hose. I guess if that was the only thing I miised putting her back together I'm lucky.
Runs great. 200 miles so far and no leaks, problems, or otherwise.

BUT, with the upgraded turbo by Majestic with 46 trim now I need a boost control to take advantage. Any suggestions anybody?

I would change the oil if you haven't yet. You should retorque the head bolts/studs and run a block test to confirm nothing is wrong.