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IHateHacks 03-07-2007 12:56 AM

Oil on top of the spark plugs has nothing to do with the electrode side (the part of the plug that is in the combustion chamber) or the head gasket.

"was it the pix were ur head gasket lookd like oil was sitting there for along time"

I have no idea what you are refering to.

"and if i just get a stock size HG will it still blow on me if its not a MHG"

It's not the gasket that fails it's the head bolts. They were undertorqued at the factory, causing them to strech. As long as you properly torque the head bolts it doesn't matter what gasket you use.

88Tsupra 03-07-2007 04:41 AM

thank you. im going to make sure its torque correctly after i go get me a torque wrench...sry buh how much ft/lbs should i re-torque it too

IHateHacks 03-07-2007 03:41 PM

That is a matter of opinion. ARP recommends 86 ft/lbs for their 12mm STUDS. ARP does NOT list a torque value for their 12mm BOLTS. And yes, torque values for studs and bolts are different. Factory specs are 58 ft/lbs which is too low, but I've heard (I can't confirm, maybe someone here has a link) that toyota reissued a new torque value for head bolts which is 72 ft/lbs. I personally torqued my ARP bolts to 70 ft/lbs. I'd say anywhere between 70 and 85 ft/lbs would be fine.

88Tsupra 03-07-2007 08:32 PM

ty i appreciate the help alot..now i just gotta ask my uncle to torque down the bolts cuz i dont know where they're at..thanx man u saved me a bhg

JMoses 03-08-2007 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks
That is a matter of opinion. ARP recommends 86 ft/lbs for their 12mm STUDS. ARP does NOT list a torque value for their 12mm BOLTS. And yes, torque values for studs and bolts are different. Factory specs are 58 ft/lbs which is too low, but I've heard (I can't confirm, maybe someone here has a link) that toyota reissued a new torque value for head bolts which is 72 ft/lbs. I personally torqued my ARP bolts to 70 ft/lbs. I'd say anywhere between 70 and 85 ft/lbs would be fine.

The Haynes Manual calls for 85 ft lbs

IHateHacks 03-08-2007 06:10 PM

You better check your lupe.

Haynes manual calls for 58 ft/lbs. Do I need to post a picture?

I follow the TSRM anyway, not Haynes.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00590.jpg

You might be dyslexic. 85--->58??

IHateHacks 03-08-2007 07:26 PM

88Tsupra- The head bolts are underneath the cam covers. If they are factory head bolts, you will need a 10mm allen head socket. It will have to be 3/8" drive to clear the cams and lifter bores. If they are ARP bolts, you will need a 1/2"(size, not drive) 12 point socket. Again, it will need to be 3/8" drive to clear the lifter bores. Then use a 3/8" extension and a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adaptor to use a 1/2" torque wrench.

And as a side note, the cams will need to be set at TDC in order to fit any kind of socket down past them to the head bolts. This is because of the castings of the cams have special ridges casted into them that have flat spots right in the spot where the head bolts are. You will see what I mean if you ever torque the head bolts yourself. In my opinion I think Toyota did that as a fool proof way of making you set the engine to TDC before you take the head off.

88Tsupra 03-09-2007 01:14 AM

thanx hate i appriciate this alot man..this is my first car and its become a gold digger...now if i can just get it torque right maybe then i can stop worrying about it..besides worrying why so much oil is draining out my car so damn fast and ending up on the side of the cam covers and side of the oil cap..depressing but entertaining..also is it ok if my exhaust tip has water all around it when i warm up the car

IHateHacks 03-09-2007 02:16 AM

As far as your oil leak around the cam covers you might wanna take a look at the sticky "Got oil on top of your spark plugs?". If that does not apply to you, then you just need new cam cover seals. Not a dealer only part. You can buy them at any parts store for around $30.

As far as the water around your exhaust tip, if you still have the cat on it, thats perfectly normal. You see, a catalytic converter oxidizes, reduces and converts exhaust gases which are HC (hydrocarbons), CO (carbon monoxide) and NOx (oxide of nitrogen) into CO2 (carbon dioxide), N2 (nitrogen) and H2O which is water (duh).

Edit: oops I just saw that you posted in that thread. My advise to you is to replace all the hoses that attach to the cam covers. That would be the 2 PCV hoses (the 2" ones right in the middle of the covers) and the big hose that is to the right of the oil cap. I can guarantee you if you take that big hose off when you take the covers off, it will crack. It's a dealer only part and its $25.95.

88Tsupra 03-09-2007 06:30 AM

thanx man your a big as help..as for the leak i plan on buying a gasket seal next wednesday then gettin new hoses to...oh i read the Sticky about the oil and if its that i guess ill just have to replace it like u said..thanx a million


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