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-   -   Setting 7M-G(T)E Timing (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-faq/15995-setting-7m-g-t-e-timing.html)

Bill UK 11-13-2009 11:06 PM

Locate the CPS with the cam pulleys as sown below, assuming you have already re-installed the can belt with the crank pulley set at zero (# 1 piston at top dead centre) and cam pulleys as in photo. Line up the hole and notch as marked with the red arrow on the CPS and insert into the head. You may find when the gear engages with camshaft helical gear the CPS shaft will rotate, I removing mine a few times to double check it hadn’t moved before nipping up the adjusting bolt. Its also worth replacing the O ring Toyota part # 90099-14018
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/CPS.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...K-PULLEY-1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...AM-PULLEY2.jpg018

cre 02-04-2010 03:49 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Then to set the spark advance, warm the engine up to normal operating temperatures and follow the instructions below:

Attachment 2763

EDIT: for some reason that attachment didn't work so well.... here's a link to the TSRM page on it.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=20

You MUST insert a jumper across T(E)1 and E1 in the diagnostic box when setting/checking the timing. Additionally, NO CODES can be present, the throttle MUST be fully closed and the A/C MUST be off... and the engine needs to be at normal operating temp. The timing is supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC, the ECU will advance it further based on sensor feed back, it's not an old Chevy, advancing it further yourself will actually do NOTHING.

Green7mgte 08-03-2010 03:06 AM

More of the same

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=85

MA70-3.0GT 08-04-2010 12:47 PM

Nice pic on Green's link of the turbo's CPS correctly aligned at TDC with the cover off, good double-check item if you're not sure it's gone in right...

btwilson86 08-19-2010 06:00 AM

timing belt tension
 
Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.


Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job


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