Help me... Please
I just bought a 84. 5mge, manual trans supra. Put a new fuel pump in, because the guy was sure that's why it wouldn't start lol, and now the car still wont start, i checked, i have spark. Also i sprayed starter fluid into intake to see if i could get it fired, nothing. actually started and ran yesterday morning? then i shut it off and tried to start back up, nothing. im thinking maybe timing?or where can i start... i am lost....feel free to email me directly rwdetail@hotmail.com, or reply on here..
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Help me-please
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How long was the engine running before you shut it down? How did the engine " feel " when it was running ? ( strong or weak? ) Did you " rev " the engine and get a response to opening the throttle ? Was the engine allowed to idle? How much fuel was in the tank? Have you checked the filter? Have you removed and checked the fuel filler cap for faults? Does the engine want to start? ( splutters? ) After cranking the engine several times without starting were the plugs wet ? ( if wet-intermittent spark problem / if dry -fuel supply problem ) Are all the electrical connections tight /not corroded ? . I'm sure there are more questions to come but these are a common start point. Hope these questions help . |
i drove it and punched it a few times, and every time it did respond well. once it did hesitate, there is five gallons in the tank, and the plugs are brand new with new wires and cap n rotor. it didnt idle that well at all. also when i try to start, it almost sounds like no fuel. but after trying for a while, it does sputter like it wants to start
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help me -please
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I'm grabbing for info to try a long distance diagnosis here . |
a little hesitation when punching it, just pulled the plugs, they are brand new but very black at the connection.. the thermostat didnt get hot no.. and thank you for your help.
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yeah, and even when i spray starter fluid in intake, no start...
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is it compression??? maybe rings? please tell me no lol.
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compression test will tell you there, stock compression should be between 175-180 psi. Could also be your cold start injector or your cold start injector switch which is I believe the brown sensor on the thermostat housing, I've been having a similar problem and was told that would be the main culprit.
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i can get it started , but its definitely running way rich, pull the brand new plugs and they are wet, runs great when started. coolant temp sensor? cold start injector? input appreciated so much guys. thankyou
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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=22
your computer has a constant current going to it through terminal BATT and it keeps a small memory. use the link i posted above to connect T and E1 on the ECU to start diagnostic mode. check for codes and report back. make sure you are getting spark and fuel. remove a plug and ground it on the head and have some one turn it over. ensure your getting fuel. test your cold start injector: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=71 also test your injectors: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=50 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=53 if further inspecti0on is required listn for fuel entering the tank. your pressure regulator may not be working properly. check for vacuum leaks to the FPR and possibly check the pressure on the rail: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=46 it sounds spark related to me because if you sprayed fuel in the intake it should have sparked up assuming your timing is close enough. maby check to see your ign coil and igniter are within manual specs still. check your fuses. |
here is some great info on the cold start injector and i way to test some things good reading:
"I've been having a lot of trouble starting my mk2 lately. As the weather got colder the worse the problem got. Having checked the TSRM, I figured out that the cold start injector was not firing. Ok, so same problem umpteen million other supra owners have had to deal with. However, being low on cash right now, I couldn't just run out to Toyota and buy a new one, and it's too cold to go roaming through the junk yards. So I started looking through the electrical diagrams, trying to figure out another way. Here's my solution. Now in case you didn't know, the cold start injector is not powered by the ECU. It's actually powered by the starter circuit. When the starter is not cranking the injector does not fire, period. The ECU only decides when to allow the injector to fire, based on coolant temperature. It fires the injector by letting it go to ground. The injectors positive side is always connected so any time the starter cranks the injector has power. The "Switch" is after the injector on the ground side. So we don't actually need it. By connecting the injector directly to ground it will always fire any time the starter runs. Ok, it's true that once the engine is already warm this will make it go rich when starting, but only for an instant. As soon as the engine kicks and you let off the key, it's back to running on the primary injectors only. Not a real problem. And it seems to work like a dream on my car. Instant starting again, nice. So, here's the mod. It's easy and only cost about 50 cents. Disconnect the start injector time switch. When looking into the connector, (that is, the side with the wires), the pin you want is on the right side of the connector when the dimple inside the connector is facing up. You'll see what I mean if you look inside it. You need to run a wire from this pin to ground. To protect the circuit use a 50k ohm resister in line with this wire to limit the power going though it. That's it. The quick and easy way to do this is run a wire to the negative terminal on the battery or any convenient bolt on the block or chassis. As long as it's grounded. Cut the wire in half and use the resistor to splice the wires back together. Wire/Resistor/Wire. Connect one end to the battery and the other to the pin of the connector. Use some electrical tape to hold everything together and make sure nothing can get caught in the belt and such. Use your imagination. Instant temporary repair until you can get a new switch. By the way, although this mod is currently working in my own car... Use at your own risk. If anything goes wrong, don't blame me" |
Help me --Please
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