Quote:
Originally Posted by 907mge
In the old cast iron manifold the sensor is pretty well in the flow with it being between the two banks of 3 about 6in from the exhaust ports. Now what i'm trying to do is figure out if I can weld the downpipe to the header and still be able to get it out of the car.I'd like to wrap it further down and knock down some of the noise coming from it. It sounds like a v8 with open headers under the hood now. And I plan on moving the o2 location up the pipe much farther. It does make a nice inprovement in power though, not sure how much but noticable.
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ill let you know in about 2 weeks lol doing a base line pull on my car this week since it is very close to stock only has a cold air and crappy 2.5 with single cat then next week im getting my header (gotta pay registration this week and freaking florida raised there prices) but i finally got my clutch and installed it
my header will be a bit different though its gonna be the obx but ill be modifying it at the last y where it merges into a single im gonna get rid of the y and just use 3 inch tube as a collector then do a straight 3 inch all the way back with just 2 45s in it so it should flow real nice and quick for all you haters on the 3 inch on n/a
should give you a close idea of the power gain though in real world rwhp numbers on a mustang dyno
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92 miata 7mgte swap
forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map