Bhg

MA70-3.0GT · 04-26-2010, 12:12 PM

Damn sorry to hear this man, I'd just cry. (I'm pissed off enough just having an oil leak from the turbo after reassembly!!!) think it's pretty much been covered here in that the threads need to be as clean as the rest of the job really if it's gonna hold. I cleaned mine with a combo of 2 stroke oil & an old bolt with slots cut up the length of the thread in the same fashion as a bottoming tap but obviously with the small advantage of only removing crap not fresh iron) & after that blasted them out thoroughly with brake cleaner until a rag on a screwdriver came out of each hole clean. Also I took a clean bolt & made sure it went in by hand with the same force, right to the bottom of each hole with no sticky bits. Then plugged the holes with blue roll until I was ready to throw the head on. In short the holes need to be good for eating your dinner off & then some.
Also if you're reusing bolts after any time or a HG blow make sure (ideally with a die nut) that the threads on those are perfect too. As cre mentioned you wouldn't believe how little crap or even just a different lube can affect torque readings opposed to clamping force...

Oh one more thing I didn't notice mentioned was the dowels front and back, their holes also need to be clean & the surface of the dowel perfect or the head could potentially stick on those. Front one on my motor had to be swapped as it had been mauled & burred by the gorilla that did the last rebuild so professionally

. 90ft/lb by the way is what my stock bolts are at right now, if you have ARP 100ft/lb would be my choice for peace of mind (and obviously a retorque after 150/200miles max.).

Best of luck for take two, for once I'm gonna hope it's NOT 3rd time lucky!!!

EDIT-: Oh cre, on the subject of hollow studs surely one could have ARP's or even stock bolts drilled part way up to create the same effect (I'm thinking simply as a place for any remaining shit to go, instead of it hydraulicking up under the base of the stud/bolt hence making it feel tighter than it is) provided it was done accurately & not on a hand drill & vice of course!

04-26-2010, 12:12 PM	#20
MA70-3.0GT 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Crewe, England Posts: 356	Damn sorry to hear this man, I'd just cry. (I'm pissed off enough just having an oil leak from the turbo after reassembly!!!) think it's pretty much been covered here in that the threads need to be as clean as the rest of the job really if it's gonna hold. I cleaned mine with a combo of 2 stroke oil & an old bolt with slots cut up the length of the thread in the same fashion as a bottoming tap but obviously with the small advantage of only removing crap not fresh iron) & after that blasted them out thoroughly with brake cleaner until a rag on a screwdriver came out of each hole clean. Also I took a clean bolt & made sure it went in by hand with the same force, right to the bottom of each hole with no sticky bits. Then plugged the holes with blue roll until I was ready to throw the head on. In short the holes need to be good for eating your dinner off & then some. Also if you're reusing bolts after any time or a HG blow make sure (ideally with a die nut) that the threads on those are perfect too. As cre mentioned you wouldn't believe how little crap or even just a different lube can affect torque readings opposed to clamping force... Oh one more thing I didn't notice mentioned was the dowels front and back, their holes also need to be clean & the surface of the dowel perfect or the head could potentially stick on those. Front one on my motor had to be swapped as it had been mauled & burred by the gorilla that did the last rebuild so professionally . 90ft/lb by the way is what my stock bolts are at right now, if you have ARP 100ft/lb would be my choice for peace of mind (and obviously a retorque after 150/200miles max.). Best of luck for take two, for once I'm gonna hope it's NOT 3rd time lucky!!! EDIT-: Oh cre, on the subject of hollow studs surely one could have ARP's or even stock bolts drilled part way up to create the same effect (I'm thinking simply as a place for any remaining shit to go, instead of it hydraulicking up under the base of the stud/bolt hence making it feel tighter than it is) provided it was done accurately & not on a hand drill & vice of course! __________________ '89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 04-26-2010 at 12:20 PM.