Quote:
Originally Posted by cre
Chasing threads is a pretty standard practice. You get a tap (thing used to thread holes for bolts) of the same size and pitch of our headbolts and you thread it into the holes (and keep adding oil to lubricate and clear out debris). As you thread it in AND as you thread it out it cuts the metal of the threads back to the right shape and size for the bolts/studs. Not doing this may cause the bolt to reach a given torque level but not provide the actual axial clamping force you want (ie: the shit don't turn so easy so you think it's done too soon).
I really wish they made hollow studs for our cars.... that's the only way to get really close to a given clamping force. Hollow's are great.
Yes, the headbolts are reusable.
80lbs is high... don't go over manufacturer specs just becaust you think it'll be better... you'll break something.
Also, rebuilt of not, you don't know what shape the head was in... could have warped from inappropriate storage. Measure it with a machinist's straight edge (not just a metal ruler!  ). |
dang. how hard is it to chase threads yourself? and i want to make sure im doing this correctly. also i know the tsrm says 56lb for torque on the head and everyone says its too low. ive seen some do 70lb and then some do 90lb for arp. what do you recommend.
also i think im going to pull the engine out and put it on a stand. so i have a couple questions. how hard is it to drop in a fully assembled engine? would the wire harness be a problem. also i heard that cork oil pan gaskets are no good. whats the best way to seal this? im also going to be double checking all my seals and i think that my rear main seal might be leaking but should be fine.
im hoping that if all goes well i can swap out the tranny during this process.
thanks again guys, let me know if there is anything i should check that could be damaged from the engine.