Tie Rods

mrnickleye · 08-27-2005, 07:09 AM

Other bushings and the lower ball joints are more suspect than tie rods.
To check the tie rods, take a BIG pair of channel locks (any cheapy will do, and good to keep in the toolbox), now open them up enough to clamp them dowm on the joint, top and bottom. Give them a squeeze. The tie rod ends are just a ball in a socket, with a spring washer to keep it tight. There should only be a tiny bit of play in the joint. If you can squeeze the joint (on and off with the pliers) and move it a 'noticable amount' (like 1/4"), then it is bad.
You can EASILY replace them. ($$ cheap $$) Do both !!

Get a tie rod end size 'pickle fork' from a parts/tool store (some let you borrow tools) and a hammer. Take the cotter pin and nut off, then use the fork & hammer to break the end loose from the wheel mount. The part is tapered in the hole, it will 'pop' loose.
NOTE...this will basically ruin the old part.

Loosen the jamnut on the p/s rack, and unscrew the end from the rack. Count the threads from the old part, end to where it stopped going into the rack.

Count they same # of threads on the new part and mark with pen or crayon. Screw new part into rack same # of threads as old part.

Install onto wheel mount portion, and tighten nut to spec (tight, but not broken, Mr. Muscles), install cotter pin. Tighten jamnut on rack.

You will be close enough to original alignment for now.

Drive around to listen for further noises and shakes.

08-27-2005, 07:09 AM	#4
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	Other bushings and the lower ball joints are more suspect than tie rods. To check the tie rods, take a BIG pair of channel locks (any cheapy will do, and good to keep in the toolbox), now open them up enough to clamp them dowm on the joint, top and bottom. Give them a squeeze. The tie rod ends are just a ball in a socket, with a spring washer to keep it tight. There should only be a tiny bit of play in the joint. If you can squeeze the joint (on and off with the pliers) and move it a 'noticable amount' (like 1/4"), then it is bad. You can EASILY replace them. ($$ cheap $$) Do both !! Get a tie rod end size 'pickle fork' from a parts/tool store (some let you borrow tools) and a hammer. Take the cotter pin and nut off, then use the fork & hammer to break the end loose from the wheel mount. The part is tapered in the hole, it will 'pop' loose. NOTE...this will basically ruin the old part. Loosen the jamnut on the p/s rack, and unscrew the end from the rack. Count the threads from the old part, end to where it stopped going into the rack. Count they same # of threads on the new part and mark with pen or crayon. Screw new part into rack same # of threads as old part. Install onto wheel mount portion, and tighten nut to spec (tight, but not broken, Mr. Muscles), install cotter pin. Tighten jamnut on rack. You will be close enough to original alignment for now. Drive around to listen for further noises and shakes. __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.