[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...All the parts were documented as far as whats on the car, but I guess you are saying to get some kind of proof that shows that the car was built and modded by redline performance?...

Yep...preferrably with transaction details for each modification.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...Ripped out...

Of course, that means more expense if you want to get it back into a condition where it would be marketable to anyone looking to daily-drive it.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...What about just patching the holes, the dash is in great condition besides that...

Could be tricky to patch holes big enough for a roll cage and get it looking oem-ish. Maybe mount tweeters for the replacement sound system in those holes?

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...What do you mean suspicious? Should I ask him to verify the claimed power?...

No...it's just that a 76mm turbo should be able to put down more power than 722rwhp, even through a built auto tranny. The claim of "900rwhp-capable" is more in-line with the 76mm turbo's capabilities, but it's strange that wasn't the advertised figure with dyno pull(s) to back it up. If all you want is 722rwhp through a built auto, you could go with a smaller turbo (eg. 74mm or maybe 71mm) and have less lag to deal with...especially if you get that nitrous kit functional. Also, a 71mm turbo would work better with that 3800rpm stall torque converter.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...Yes I was definitely gonna have a compression/leakdown test done now that I realize how important it is. How can I verify the ignition map and the knock sensor logs?...

You'll need a PC with the AEM engine management software.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...I rode in the car with it on the 18psi setting and it seemed to run great. The only thing was that there was a little bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust on idle which he said was because he had to fill up from a station that had ethanol in the gas and the car didn't like that, and it was freezing outside...

It also could be worn cylinder walls...possibly due to being tuned overly-rich in certain parts of the fuel curve. It could also be a leaky turbine-side turbo oil seal. The leakdown test (or at the very least a compression test) will help tell you what's going on.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...Okay this worries me, when you say no-no, are you implying that the car has not been modded correctly. If you could, could you please give me better detail about this?...

This could be a reason they've never run it above 722rwhp. Above that hp level, airflow through the oem plenum becomes unbalanced...which is why all big hp Mkiv's run aftermarket plenums like this one:
http://members.cox.net/virtualworksr...ntake/m1lg.htm

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...Well he pointed out the button that activates it and the bottle in the trunk definitely looked hooked up, but as far as proofing it....I am unaware as to how he could do this without actually using it. He said it was "never" used because it was never needed. The car is such a monster that it is just unnecessary...

Then why not simply remove the nitrous kit and sell it separately? ...or better yet, why in the H-E-double-hockey-sticks not use it if for no other reason than to tune the AEM with the nitrous (and of course to make sure it actually works)?!! To me, a seller shouldn't advertise that a car has nitrous if it really doesn't have a functional nitrous system (and the tuning to go with it). If all it is a few random parts that happen to be glued/bolted/zip-tied to the vehicle, and then he says or implies that the car comes with a nitrous system, that's pretty-much false advertising to me. Imho, having the seller try to convince an unsuspecting buyer that it's somehow actually a really cool benefit that the nitrous kit was "never used" makes that false advertising even worse. Maybe the way I'm looking at this makes me overly-particular, anal-rententive, and OCD? Please let me know your thoughts here.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...No idea, I will definitely ask. I am curious as to what the significance of knowing this is though, just for my own personal knowledge...

The exact cams installed helps you tell what that Miiv Supra is capable of, as-is (i.e. is it really 900rwhp-capable? or is it really only 722rwhp-capable?) If it has 280s, that will make it even less 'streetable' (eg. rough/high idle, worse longevity due to stress on valvetrain), and more of a gas guzzler, etc. A new, more-streetable set of cams is about $500 plus installation&reshimming. On the other hand, if the cams are 264s, this could partially explain why they didn't try to make more than 722rwhp. I'm guessing all that all of this information is probably relevant to your puchasing decision, and not just nice-to-know.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...Well I probably only drive about 25miles a day. How unrealistic would it be for me to drive it daily until I resell it, no traffic or anything like that...

Since you asked the question (thereby opening this 'can of worms'), I'm going to be brutally honest with you here: As that Supra sits, it's primarily a dragstrip vehicle. You'll probably be able to carefully drive it to the strip and back in sunny, dry, warm weather, and you'll probably be able to put up with it while you cruise for 'kills' on the street if you're into that sort of thing, but it's no daily driver. That external electric fuel pump is probably pretty noisy (you should have already noticed this sound when you saw the car). Not only will fuel economy be bad due to those firehose-sized injectors, but that's compounded by only having a 10 gallon fuel cell. In addition, when fuel cells are installed in the Mkiv, the floorboards in the hatch area are usually 'gutted', which means the interior of the car is pretty much open and exposed to the elements (dust, dirt, gas fumes, exhaust, road noise, cold/hot outside temperatures, etc.). That external pump could overheat and burn out if you're stuck inching forward in rush-hour traffic (eg. behind an accident or other blockage on the road). That built TH400 will shift very harshly, which will spill the coffee you're sipping on the way to work, jerk while your girlfriend is touching up her lipstick, and may attract police attention perhaps at exactly the wrong time. Those nitto555 tires will perform horribly in the rain and in cold weather. That TH400 doesn't shift automatically, which makes it no worse than a 6spd (but nowhere near as convenient as a real auto). No a/c means if you keep it through late spring you could be sweating by the time you get to work. No spare tire., etc., etc. In summary, as a daily driver it'd be uncomfortable, inconvenient, and unsafe. Need I go on?
Note - I'm not bashing the car or the owner. It probably does fine on the dragstrip, so it may in fact do what it was built to do quite well. I'm just making sure everyone understands the intent of its modifications were clearly not to have this Mkiv Supra remain a comfortable daily driver (like it was when it was bone-stock); this is so you know exactly what you'd be buying.

Originally Posted by braaaaawp88

...I was very curious about this, when you say "gas guzzler," how bad do you really think it is? With the pro shift kit with the 3 gear no clutch setup, what do you think my gas mileage would be if I drove really conservative at about 65mph???...

Could be as bad as 10mpg or even worse (which means with that 10g fuel cell, you only get a 50 mile driving range one-way if you want to get back without another fill-up)... Keep in mind that 10mpg is just a guess - there are a lot of factors including the base fuel pressure and how well the AEM has been tuned for 'normal' (i.e. non-dragstrip) driving conditions.

P.S. Don't forget that race fuel is usually $10+/gal...which you will need whenever you want 500 rwhp+. At only 10mpg, that $100+ fill-up won't last long while cruising.