Quote:
Originally Posted by burton51m
Hey I'm in the middle of replacing my headgasket also and i was reading your thread and had a question. I purchased some ARP studs as well and am also having trouble getting the studs all the way down in the block. can you tell me what you did?
and should i use the moly lube or 30wt?
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I assume you really mean studs and not bolts. (They sell both) So if it's studs it's a little tricky but all and all a better result.
Make sure you have cleaned your head bolt holes very well. I used the lube that came with them which I think was molly lube. You have a small hex head on the top side of your studs to help you screw the studs into the block with an allen wrench. They don't need to be cranked tight down in there...just snug. They should all go in about the same depth. If one is way off you may have a problem with that bolt hole. Just make sure the exposed lengths once seated looks correct before setting the head on in case they sent you the wrong length. (You could call ARP or whoever you bought them from and double check length/part number)
If your engine is still in the car, you'll find it tricky to get the head back on the studs. I used a shop engine hoist and my son to help me gently guide and lower the head over the studs. (Taking the hood off would make it easier but I did it with hood on)
Another tip I got from the head machining guy, once the head is on and ready to torque, torque each nut in the proper order to about 40 ft/lbs...then walk away or work on something else for about 1 hour. Then un-torque a little, re-torque to about 50 ft/lbs, wait about 30 minutes, torque to 60, wait 30 minutes, and so on up to the ARP values. (I think about 80 ft/lbs) Always torque in the proper order per your TSRM. Take your time and don't be distracted durring this process.
Congratulations on doing this yourself. Anybody else will not do it right.