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Originally Posted by 94T88Widebody
I appologize..Let me explain better.
From the begining...
I was driving and noticed the car had less power and sounded different (misfiring)
On my way home I broke the cam belt tesnioner throwing the car out of time but still able to run enough to get me home. (one time its good to still have a stock block)
I replaced the tensioner with a billet one. put the car back in time and it ran again with the same lack of power and still sounding differnt.
I decided to put fresh fuel in the car (91octane) and take it for a spin (I know I need race fuel!)
while driving the car spit sputters and threw a bomb out the back end ran for a few seconds more and then died.
I towed the car back to my house and began to troubleshoot.... and now here is what I found.....
Number 4 plug electrode was melted away:
I replaced the nuber 4 plug only and gapped it according to what 1 2 3 were gapped. I tried to start the car and would not start.
At that point I decided to check spark:
Pulled #2 plug and coil pack (#2 is super easy to get to thats why)
It sparked..
Pulled number 1 plug and coil pack. No spark
I took plug from 1 and checked with number 2 coil pack on number 2 harness connection... I had spark.... good plug!
I then moved number 1 plug and number 1 coil pack to the number 2 harness connection and checked for spark..... I have spark!
These are the same symptoms for 1 3 4 5 6! Good plugs, Good coils.. no spark.
Basically I am only getting signal to the number 2 harness plug to initiate the spark.
All modifications were completed by Ryan Woon at WOTM. As of now I have no reason to doubt his desgn. His only recomendation to me was to run with race fuel as much as possible. Boost is as low as the controller will allow me to go.. roughly 16psi. Plugs are a 7 heat range NGK VPOWER
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Again, are you running an ignition amplifier of any sort (CDI or DLI)? And is your AEM set up to use waste spark ignition? If so, note that your #2 and #5 ignition signals are driven out of the same AEM output...which means that your #5 coil & plug should fire at the same time as #2. This is another reason I suspect your ignitor (and/or your ignition amplifier, if any) may be related to the problem.
Your broken tensioner bracket could still have caused valve(s) to be bent if your head were decked and if you're running 272 or 280 cams (are you? ...or are you running stock cams too? )...but either way a failure in the cam timing should not have any effect on the ignition. About the only semi-related item is the 'toothed' crank position sensor gear attached to the crankshaft's timing belt gear. When you plug a laptop into your AEM are you getting an accurate RPM signal while trying to start the engine?
Another troubleshooting step you should take (imo) is a compression test. Although this is not directly related to the ignition problem, it can help determine if you have either bent valves or scored cylinder walls (from spark plug debris).