turn on lights installing switch?

cre · 07-03-2012, 11:02 PM

Bad news central here, just checking in.... Someone shoot me.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...x?S=Main&P=060

Hey Carl,

I recommend you purchase new sockets for sealed lamps or H4 sockets for starters. If they've got 12GA wire or better well, all the better. Personally I'd run new wire to the lamps and relays, battery and ground... 12GA. The factory wiring isn't very beefy and personally I wouldn't trust it for the kind of time frames you are.

So, here's what you do: Run a new 12GA wire from the alternator or battery + to an inline fuse (30A) and then into a common Bosch automotive relay (I'd use one of the Bosch double 70 terminal relays (NOT to be confused with a 70/70a relay). The positive wire connects to both terminals 30 and 86 on the relay. Now run a wire from terminal 87 on the relay to the terminal on the lamp socket where the red wire is/was connected and on the other side of the car it's red with white stripe. If you have a relay with two 87 terminals you would just run a wire from each terminal to each side. Now run a small wire (doesn't have to be a thick wire, 20GA will suffice) to the cabin. Connect this to one side of the toggle switch and run a wire from the other side of the toggle to a ground. If you want the high and low beam filaments to both light up full time then just ground the two remaining wires at the headlamp socket (I recommend you ground them at the block or at the battery's chassis ground. If You want individual control over the hi beams then you can either use another relay (I probably would) or a put a switch with a reasonable high rating (about 15A) in the middle of the ground coming from the socket where the original wire was red with black stripe.

I'll still get a diagram together for you. I just figured I'd post this in case you can decipher my ramblings. I would handle the head light separately and not use the stock wiring or relays due to age and also because you'll actually get more light of heavier gauge wiring and minor rerouting.

Are you still using the retractors or do you have the headlights up full time?

To manually control the taillight/marker light circuit you should only need to T into the green wire with white stripe coming from the integration relay, run the additional line to a toggle and then the other side of that toggle goes to ground. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...x?S=Main&P=062

Need more? Fogs? If you'd like diagrams let me know. I'll try to work on some anyway but they may take the back burner if no one is waiting for them.

07-03-2012, 11:02 PM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Bad news central here, just checking in.... Someone shoot me. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...x?S=Main&P=060 Hey Carl, I recommend you purchase new sockets for sealed lamps or H4 sockets for starters. If they've got 12GA wire or better well, all the better. Personally I'd run new wire to the lamps and relays, battery and ground... 12GA. The factory wiring isn't very beefy and personally I wouldn't trust it for the kind of time frames you are. So, here's what you do: Run a new 12GA wire from the alternator or battery + to an inline fuse (30A) and then into a common Bosch automotive relay (I'd use one of the Bosch double 70 terminal relays (NOT to be confused with a 70/70a relay). The positive wire connects to both terminals 30 and 86 on the relay. Now run a wire from terminal 87 on the relay to the terminal on the lamp socket where the red wire is/was connected and on the other side of the car it's red with white stripe. If you have a relay with two 87 terminals you would just run a wire from each terminal to each side. Now run a small wire (doesn't have to be a thick wire, 20GA will suffice) to the cabin. Connect this to one side of the toggle switch and run a wire from the other side of the toggle to a ground. If you want the high and low beam filaments to both light up full time then just ground the two remaining wires at the headlamp socket (I recommend you ground them at the block or at the battery's chassis ground. If You want individual control over the hi beams then you can either use another relay (I probably would) or a put a switch with a reasonable high rating (about 15A) in the middle of the ground coming from the socket where the original wire was red with black stripe. I'll still get a diagram together for you. I just figured I'd post this in case you can decipher my ramblings. I would handle the head light separately and not use the stock wiring or relays due to age and also because you'll actually get more light of heavier gauge wiring and minor rerouting. Are you still using the retractors or do you have the headlights up full time? To manually control the taillight/marker light circuit you should only need to T into the green wire with white stripe coming from the integration relay, run the additional line to a toggle and then the other side of that toggle goes to ground. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...x?S=Main&P=062 Need more? Fogs? If you'd like diagrams let me know. I'll try to work on some anyway but they may take the back burner if no one is waiting for them. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->