Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindedlegacy
You expect me to have thermometer?
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Too much to ask, eh? And no, I wasn't looking for an exact measurement. Resistance through any conductor increases in proportion to temperature... heat it up and there's more resistance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindedlegacy
I've replaced the entire ignition system and tested every sensor at least twice. I also replaced the entire charging system. I'm exhausted all my money and haven't gotten any closer to solving anything
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Don't blame me, I didn't recommend you spend a single cent on the charging system (I may have suggested spending $5 on new brushes for the alternator) and warned you to stop just throwing cash at it.
When you're done huffing and puffing: Clean ALL of your grounds (big and small, on the engine block, the intake manifold, driver's side kick panel and ECU) and battery cables. Test the AFM's Vs signal voltage at the ECU with someone moving the vane (I linked to a more detailed description on how to do this a long way back in this thread. Do it both when the AFM is cool and the heat it up heavily with a hair dryer and test again), test FC on the AFM both when it's hot and when it's cool. Wiggling wires does dick... take measurements, test for voltage drop. Check for loose, broken, corroded connectors. Test for voltage drop across Vc from the ECU to the AFM and TPS connectors. Vc should measure around .48 to .5v. Go through the fuse boxes and replace any fuses which are not the proper value (and make sure the previous owner didn't bypass anything else like they did with the 100A FL). Bypass the fuel pump resistor pack and relay if you like, it's not going to hurt anything to try it but generally it fails the other way around. You got rid of the code 51 right? Verified that the vacuum lines are all run properly? ALL of this should take 2 to 3 hours... for a complete novice it shouldn't take more than 3 days.