Quote:
Originally Posted by Joefishizzle
Cre or anyone else knowledgeable, I tested the afm per the link you gave me. My resistance is no where near those values. There supposed to be 200-400 or 200-600, I read only 60 on one and 84 on the other. Am I doing something wrong or is my afm toast?
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The easier and more reliable way to test the VAFM (Vane Air Flow Meter) is to test the output voltage at the Vs input on the ECU harness. With the ignition "ON" but the engine off you should see a scale from ~.5v to ~4.8v as the vane is slowly opened from full closed to full open (or the other way around... :P ). Then test the temp sensor's resistance as specified in the manual.
The VAFM is a wear component unlike the GTE's KVAFM. There's a rheostat inside and the wiper and pad wear out over time as they're constantly moving. Watch for significant "flat spots" where the voltage changes less with the movement of the vane than it does elsewhere... These generally occur where the vane is less than 40% open as this is where the vane spends most of its time during normal operation.
Have you checked the ignition timing yet? Running great doesn't mean it's running optimally for peak performance or emissions compliance. Increasing the base timing a few degrees will have more effect than adding an octane booster (complete waste of money and if overdone can make your test results worse). Just don't go too far with the timing... As you increase the spark advance the NOx will increase while the others drop a bit. If you go too far though you may cause a significant amount of ping which will cause the ECU to retard timing and add a lot more fuel.