Quote:
Originally Posted by jzzrs180
Hey hey everyone.
I am purchasing a stock '97 MKIV, I have done my fair share educating myself on BPU's n APU's, and from that have certain goals I want to accomplish, yet still proceed with the proper steps necessary to avoid disaster. The ultimate goal is to achieve the least amount of turbo lag with immediate response, and still feel the power band the whole way. I don't need a crazy 1000hp monster, I'd prefer a smooth street driven 700-800rwhp max/w adjusted suspension, and still keep the originality of the car. Am I missing anything from what I have listed so far?
1ST Bundle
1.ebc or mbc (electronic/manual boost controller)
2.greddy BCC
3.downpipe with high flow catalytic converter
4.exhaust
=From my understanding this will equal to around 370-410rwhp.
2nd Bundle
1.turbo(s) upgraded
2.HKS fmic/piping/water pump/ thermometer
3.adjustable cam gear(s)
4.Paxton upgraded fuel system/w (720 injectors?)
Is it cheaper to upgrade to a single turbo rather than twin, and do I still benefit from a blowoff valve in an auto? Any other recommendations or opinions would be appreciated as well! Like what is unnecessary for upgrading i.e. intake manifold?
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1) Will you be purchasing a TT or an N/A? If TT, is it a US-spec or Japanese-spec?
2) What kind of fuel do you plan to run? A bpu Mkiv TT only makes 410rwhp using a blend of race fuel and 93 octane pump gas. If you try to make 410rwhp with the oem twins using 93 octane pump gas you'll detonate and gradually (or rapidly, depending on the boost level) deteriorate your engine's compression ratio.
3) You'll need a boost gauge (some boost controllers come with this)
4) You'll make more power with a straight-through downpipe than with a high-flow cat
5) You can move the adjustable cam gears up to bundle#1
6) Why did you pick a "Paxton" fuel system?
7) The oem water pump works just fine. What did you mean by "thermometer" in bundle#2, point 2.?