code 51/ quits when returning to idle

professorbob · 01-29-2012, 10:55 PM

Added water and the low fluid light went out. Still have not located the drip at the back of the engine, and I expect that is where the coolant leaked out.
Leaving the TPS Throttle Position Sensor disconnected, I started the engine and allowed it to reach operating temperature.
Decided to drive it down the street a few block to see if there is any difference in performance.
Still no joy. The car will with hesitation to accelerate ( probably because of the disconnected TPS) it shifted from 1st to second but faltered before being able to up shift to High.
Tried to go to WOT Wide Open Throttle and had very poor response and still not increase in speed. The engine would cutoff at 2800 rpm. and drop back to 1800 where it again would try to gains speed.
Still have the very high rich mixture, as there is huge amounts of black smoke, as one would have on a carburetor engine with full choke.
After about 1/4 mile, I returned to the garage to check codes.
Had a 32,41,51.
For sure the 41 is the disconnected TPS. 32 is the turbo, or AFM or ECU.
I certainly wish there were a way to check values on these Karmon Vortex AFMs to make sure they are OK. Trying to contact another supra owner to ask if he will install these electronic units on his supra to see the response.
Will continue to read the manual this evening about checking values with ohm meter.
I noted that in some cases a analogue volt/ohm meter is recommended. Is there any special reason that a digital meter will not work.
I removed the ground screw for the real passenger side strap and scraped the brass fitting and hold down washer. Also did the same thing for the grown strap coming off the battery on the drive side wheel well.
I re-tightened the intake hoses to make sure there are no leaks.
The turbo gauge needle is just below the 0 indicator and drops to -4 at Idle. Is this normal. What should I look for from this gauge during the test drives. Under what conditions will the turbo response and in what manner base on shifting etc
51 indicates an issue with the A/C. I have the off button pushed, but still have lights on the circulation buttons. Is this normal or not?.

I know this is a lot of stuff to read and absorb and I appreciate you willingness to off input.
Thanks
Again.
Robert

01-29-2012, 10:55 PM	#20
professorbob Intake Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lavonia Posts: 49	RPM cutoff... Rich condition update after road test. Added water and the low fluid light went out. Still have not located the drip at the back of the engine, and I expect that is where the coolant leaked out. Leaving the TPS Throttle Position Sensor disconnected, I started the engine and allowed it to reach operating temperature. Decided to drive it down the street a few block to see if there is any difference in performance. Still no joy. The car will with hesitation to accelerate ( probably because of the disconnected TPS) it shifted from 1st to second but faltered before being able to up shift to High. Tried to go to WOT Wide Open Throttle and had very poor response and still not increase in speed. The engine would cutoff at 2800 rpm. and drop back to 1800 where it again would try to gains speed. Still have the very high rich mixture, as there is huge amounts of black smoke, as one would have on a carburetor engine with full choke. After about 1/4 mile, I returned to the garage to check codes. Had a 32,41,51. For sure the 41 is the disconnected TPS. 32 is the turbo, or AFM or ECU. I certainly wish there were a way to check values on these Karmon Vortex AFMs to make sure they are OK. Trying to contact another supra owner to ask if he will install these electronic units on his supra to see the response. Will continue to read the manual this evening about checking values with ohm meter. I noted that in some cases a analogue volt/ohm meter is recommended. Is there any special reason that a digital meter will not work. I removed the ground screw for the real passenger side strap and scraped the brass fitting and hold down washer. Also did the same thing for the grown strap coming off the battery on the drive side wheel well. I re-tightened the intake hoses to make sure there are no leaks. The turbo gauge needle is just below the 0 indicator and drops to -4 at Idle. Is this normal. What should I look for from this gauge during the test drives. Under what conditions will the turbo response and in what manner base on shifting etc 51 indicates an issue with the A/C. I have the off button pushed, but still have lights on the circulation buttons. Is this normal or not?. I know this is a lot of stuff to read and absorb and I appreciate you willingness to off input. Thanks Again. Robert