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Old 08-03-2006, 12:49 AM   #11
superpage1987
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Well Suprasforlife said basicly what i was going to the only thing i have to add is that the high rev could be caused be an improper ajusted high idle i have herd of fords doing this befor basicly the alternator dosnt put out enough power at idle when the heater is on so the car goes to high idle and if it is ajusted wrong the car idles exsevly high
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Old 08-03-2006, 01:06 AM   #12
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I dont think I can adjust Idle, its all computerly done by the ecu, do you know if I can adjust the high idle?



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Well Suprasforlife said basicly what i was going to the only thing i have to add is that the high rev could be caused be an improper ajusted high idle i have herd of fords doing this befor basicly the alternator dosnt put out enough power at idle when the heater is on so the car goes to high idle and if it is ajusted wrong the car idles exsevly high
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Old 08-03-2006, 09:23 PM   #13
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Well i am not totaly sure how you can ajust it. You might try swinging by you local ford dealer tell them your problum. See if they can tell you what they think it might be more than likly it is a problum they have seen before ,and can give you some pointers.
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:41 PM   #14
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OK, anyone know anything about shorts?
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Old 08-04-2006, 04:17 AM   #15
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I know a lot about them, the machine I use at work has about 20 miles of wire in it and it's 35 years old, so it has had just a few shorts in it from time to time. (It has stumped me and 3 certified electricians) If you see smoke there is your problem. No smoke means it's not grounding out really bad. Get a tester with ohms on it and trace the wire, put a lead on each end, 0 ohms means it's broke. You can also test it with voltage, same process as ohms. Voltage only works on wires with voltage or current running through them, so you have to do it with the key on in the car. If you have an idea where it is start there. With most parts on the car, for example, the wires going to the wiper motor, you can unhook the harness from the motor, turn the wipers on and check for voltage that would or should be going to the motor to make it operate. Put the negative pole of your tester on something that will work as a ground like the block of the engine or a inplace ground wire or something and then take your hot (red) pole and put it into the plug or harness and you should get a reading. Not all wires have constant current running though them so voltage will not work on everything, some wires just have a short brust of voltage to engage something, if you can catch it when it sends the current then you'll get a reading otherwise you won't, that is where ohms comes into play.
You do want to be carefull while doing this, use one hand when possible and put the other behind your back. A car will only give you a little shock because its only a 12 volt system. If you ever have to test 120/240 volts, USE ONE HAND. The one hand behind your back prevents the volts from having a path to connect back to itself, if you have both hands on it and you touch it wrong it will travel through you, back to itself then to the ground, that's how most people get fried. A single path through you is enough to blast you across the room when it reaches the ground, a double path(through both arms) can kill you, quickly, a single path can kill you to, but most people who die where using both hands, so be careful.
Hope this helps

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Old 08-05-2006, 12:15 AM   #16
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Damn man! I think Im going to sell it with the short after that talk, but I'll try it soon.
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Old 08-05-2006, 06:04 AM   #17
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It's not that bad, just takes time, nothing really to worry about, I just put the info about 120/240v in there in case you have to check the dryer or something, a car shock you'll hardly notice most of the time. It takes awhile and is boring but not hard to do by anymeans.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:51 PM   #18
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Well if you are going to sell it i know how to dumb it fast. Go to a used car lot and ask how much he well buy it out right for. Look around like you are looking for a car to bye but never say you are looking for one. Just make sound like you are and when he comes back with the check just take it and leave. If he gets pissy about it tell him i was only looking to sell it i never said i was going to buy anything. Cars gone and no longer your problum.
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:58 PM   #19
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Some helpful info that will let me help you is what year, motor and trans, And theni should be able to help a little bit. But in a general way, If it is carbed, When you floor it and it dies, Its because its either out of tune or glogged up. Get some in tank carb cleaner. And the electrical issue does sound like a short. Look inside your cig lighter....Is there any loose change or anything inside of it? this happens to cars all the time...get change in the socket. Just pull the heater fuse and see if the battery keeps dieing. And if it does, Pull one at a time untill it holds its charge. It could even be as simple as a bad alternator or a bad battery from the factory
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:09 AM   #20
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Its a 1997 Mustang SVT Cobra, with a 280, I got the stumbleing taken care of, everything is fixed, we put a new battery in it and it works fine, I think the alternator is bad though, so Im going to get it tested, thanks

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Some helpful info that will let me help you is what year, motor and trans, And theni should be able to help a little bit. But in a general way, If it is carbed, When you floor it and it dies, Its because its either out of tune or glogged up. Get some in tank carb cleaner. And the electrical issue does sound like a short. Look inside your cig lighter....Is there any loose change or anything inside of it? this happens to cars all the time...get change in the socket. Just pull the heater fuse and see if the battery keeps dieing. And if it does, Pull one at a time untill it holds its charge. It could even be as simple as a bad alternator or a bad battery from the factory
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