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Old 05-26-2010, 02:33 AM   #1
turbonicsperformance
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Default anyone with wideband on n/a?

if anyone else has one i would like to know what your a/f is while idling ive finally maxed my afm to get 15.0-14.7 out of it before it was running at 17.0 sometimes wouldnt register at stock

also what is your a/f at wot my a/f varies between 12.1-10.2 which is just extremely rich especially for an n/a at 10 btdc, ive maxed my timing without pulling the dist and moving a tooth im at 14 btdc and im running about 12.7-11.4 still really rich anyone else having issues? or is this normal for these cars? im not really worried about it besides the poor milage since im getting my safc2 very soon i'm just curious
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:21 AM   #2
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You don't adjust timing to adjust the AFR! You're just screaming for trouble (most likely ventilated pistons or well-done valves depending on which way you've been adjusting it)... I don't even want to think about what you did to the AFM to adjust the AFR at idle...


Somebody please help this guy. (honest request)
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:26 PM   #3
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first question is why are you messing with fuel ratios?
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:25 PM   #4
turbonicsperformance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
You don't adjust timing to adjust the AFR! You're just screaming for trouble (most likely ventilated pistons or well-done valves depending on which way you've been adjusting it)... I don't even want to think about what you did to the AFM to adjust the AFR at idle...


Somebody please help this guy. (honest request)

you can adjust the air bleed on the afm its not a problem and i know you dont do timing for a/f ratio but i also know when you advance timing your af will go more lean my car runs perfect and i know what im doing and im adjusting a/f ratio because i get crap milage and because running rich or lean robs power and im running extremely rich at wot im running perfect at idle now though and 15 btdc is not very advance for an engine with 9-1 comp. i ran 18 on my 84 accord hatch with 11-1 pistons i have no spark knock or problems i know what to and not to do i do this everyday
sorry if any of this sounded condesending i didnt mean for it to
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92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map
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Old 05-27-2010, 01:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullthrottlesrqsupra View Post
if anyone else has one i would like to know what your a/f is while idling ive finally maxed my afm to get 15.0-14.7 out of it before it was running at 17.0 sometimes wouldnt register at stock

also what is your a/f at wot my a/f varies between 12.1-10.2 which is just extremely rich especially for an n/a at 10 btdc, ive maxed my timing without pulling the dist and moving a tooth im at 14 btdc and im running about 12.7-11.4 still really rich anyone else having issues? or is this normal for these cars? im not really worried about it besides the poor milage since im getting my safc2 very soon i'm just curious

If you're worried about gas mileage. Check for leaking injectors, bad mass air, etc...etc...etc....Leave stuff alone and fix what is wrong. And why would the first thing you would think to go to is the timing. To get shitty gas mileage your timing would have to be REALLY f-ed up.
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:00 AM   #6
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personally I would of taken the 200 for the safc 2 and the 200 for the wideband and bought my self something pretty. instead of doing pointless mods. but hey, to each their own.
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfa_automotive View Post
If you're worried about gas mileage. Check for leaking injectors, bad mass air, etc...etc...etc....Leave stuff alone and fix what is wrong. And why would the first thing you would think to go to is the timing. To get shitty gas mileage your timing would have to be REALLY f-ed up.
i wasnt looking at my timing for my milage it was just on the list of things to do and nothing seems to be broke i only have one code and it is iac code since i unplugged it and set my idle manually the only thing i could think of other than my afm or o2 was my timing not for my milage just as for my afr i have no leaks and my afm and o2 check out fine with a meter so i tried adjusting my timing and it did lean out a bit as i thought it would just not a whole lot... next step is checking the fuel pump when i bought the car it had everything that ive ever seen as a "gimmick hp adder" on the car it had the fart can exhaust ebay tornado turbo the magnetic fuel thing an air filter and im thinking he might have thrown in a pump for no real reason... but who knows thats what you get when you buy a used car

and ive gone through and checked and double checked everything before i even started driving it though today i built my new intake and wrapped my exhaust to prevent atleast a little heat soak (seems to be helping)
now at wot im running 13.6-12.5 loads better but still a little rich it should be around 14.0 at least i was shooting for 14.5-14.7 area right where its supposed to be but you can't always be perfect also today i found that this is not the original engine for my car when i pulled the heat shield off the manifold right there on the block is some paint markings form either a scrapyard or online company fun fun
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92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green7mgte View Post
personally I would of taken the 200 for the safc 2 and the 200 for the wideband and bought my self something pretty. instead of doing pointless mods. but hey, to each their own.
i didnt get the safc yet but i found a used from my buddy for 85 and my wideband was 130 new we deal with aem alot so we get good prices (cant wait to need my plug and play system) i get a VERY GOOD deal on this (less than half of the clearance price from hpfreaks) sorry for the double post i just realized there was another response i wish i could pass that savings on but legally we cant my boss got busted for selling cams too cheap and we no longer do sales

also i couldnt think of anything pretty to spend some cash on and every bit helps as far as mods when you drive a slow na after driving FAST turbo cars all day you just want every little drop out of it
but it will be turbo soon enough and i figured when i go turbo ill already have a wideband and wont need to worry about it at that point just driving the crap out of it now hoping it blows so i have real reason to spend the cash on a gte and i wont get bitched at about wasting money on my car by everyone i know
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92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

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