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Old 07-10-2008, 02:56 PM   #31
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NO. They won't pinpoint the problem.
They aren't in the business of telling you what's wrong with your car dude.
They just tell you how much it will cost if you want them to fix it.

If you try and corner them about what the problems are. They will most likely clam up. While handing you an estimate and shouting....,NEXT.
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:22 PM   #32
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The owner of the dealership is a close friend of my grandfathers and his neighbor on top of that. I don't think being jacked needs to be worried about I just want to know if they'd have the potential to pinpoint the problem.
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Old 07-12-2008, 02:26 AM   #33
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To pinpoint the problem, you need to find someone willing to turn a wrench on your car, hopefully you. If the turbo is the source of the smoking, you can remove the lower air hose on the intercooler, and check it for traces of liquid oil going into the intake. If this is clear, you'll need to remove the elbow for the downpipe at the exhaust side of the turbo, and check that for liquid oil traces. If this pipe is also clear, the problem is probably not the turbo.


of course mkiiisupra probably has issues with this advise as well, and will follow up by flooding this topic.........
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:00 AM   #34
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I'd dump that 5-30 real fast. Go to at least a 15-40 or 20-50. 20 wt. is pretty thin at room temp. I'd only use a 15-40 in winter. These oils aren't thick enough to cause problems, but a too thin oil sure will.

A new, tight bearing clearance engine may be OK with 0-30 wt synthetic, but your clearances are probably pretty loose by now.
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:56 AM   #35
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Well got it back from Toyota, they said that the valve cover gasket was screwed and that was doing it. There is no way in hell that that could be just it, yes I know its screwed and its leaking some oil, but not that much and it certainly wouldn't make it burn the oil.

At this point I figure it's likely the valve seals.

So I take it that you're saying lighter weight oils are better for engines in their prime but heavier oils are better for higher mileage engines?
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:54 AM   #36
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I thought you and the owner had an understanding .

Do you think it was him under the bonnet??? Or a tech guy that gets paid salary no matter how much work he gets done?

That's the cat you need as a neighbor. Not the owner.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:26 AM   #37
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Aw well, at least it only took them an hour to do that and take out the radar detector the previous owner had in it; wasn't going to be messing with his sketchy ass wiring job myself. And the valve cover did need to be fixed but a monkey could have seen that, live and learn I guess.

What am I looking at for a price on replacing the valve seals?
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:10 PM   #38
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Before you order this work, I just went back and re-read the original post and previous replies. I think your barking up the wrong tree by now focussing on the valve seals. The valves are not on the pressurized oil circuit, and get most of their lubrication from the gasoline. Even if the valve seals are leaking, you will not get enough oil past the valve stem to account for the oil losses your claiming. A typical valve stem seal leak will be a puff of smoke at start-up, but it clears up. If the smoke is continuous, I'd be focussing on rings or BHG.

I noticed you have not posted results from a leak-down test yet. Any good shop can do this, and it gives a real good indication of the condition of the rings and valves. Do this before anything else. It will help determine the next move. And, it is much cheaper than valve seal replacement.

The reason I say this is because it would be almost as expensive to replace the valve stem seals as it would to do a BHG. Not quite, but it would be cheap to do if the head must come off, rather than spend all that money to do it, and then find out the head will have to come off later.
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:47 PM   #39
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Hm, good point. I was thinking about doing the BHG kit from the suprastore anyway just to be safe and so I don't have to tear it apart down the road after shoehorning all the mods onto it.

Is a leak down test the same thing as a pressure test?

And I've been having to drive the thing back and fourth to work every other day and I check the oil every time I get to my destination and I didn't lose near as much as that long trip making me think that the high temp of the engine was effecting the amount of oil it burned drastically somehow. I think the dummy who had it before me had his antifreeze to water ratio screwed up and probably just used a garden hose too, I'll do a coolant system flush possibly an upgrade too just to be safe.

And there's something a little odd with starting it too, sometimes to start it I need to have just the parking brake on and not the normal brakes, other times I need to have the normal brakes on and not the parking brakes and sometimes it wont start if I have either brakes on. Whats up with that, there isn't even any order to it it's just random?

Last edited by Canuckrz; 07-12-2008 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:44 AM   #40
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I think the brake thing is a red herring. There is nothing connecting the starter circuit to the brake circuit. There is a known issue with the otherwise bullet-proof Denso gear reduction starters. The contacts in the built-in solenoid tend to get beaten out of shape, and can cause intermittent failure of the starter. You can replace these contacts, or just replace the starter to avoid any other starter-related issues.

A leak-down test is slightly different from a compression test. It tests how well the cylinders MAINTAIN pressure using a gauge and shop air. A compression test shows how well the cylinders built compression. Did you have a compression test done? Please post those results. If the compression is good, at least 120 psi with all 6 within 10%, then we need to look even further.
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